Back in 2008 when I was first introduced to the Minerva-Montblanc collaboration at the Montblanc Boutique in Paragon, it was love at first sight. The Minerva movements in the Montblanc Villeret 1858 collection are definitely watchmaking at its best. From simple three handed timepieces to more complex chronographs, there is nothing not to like about the collection.
Fast forward to 2015, I came across a Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe (officially, that is what it is called) listed on a website and as fate would have it, managed to snag it. Why is it called the Pulsographe? Well, there is the pulsometer scale on the dial that allows the user to measure the pulse rates. Aimed at the medical profession, the pulsographe is designed to have one pusher for easy actuation - start, stop and reset all on one pusher. See (below) the monopusher at the 2 o'clock position.
This pulsometer scale is calibrated to 30 beats which means the user will count 30 beats of the pulse and stop the chronograph and where the red hand stops will indicate the heart rate per minute.
See the pulsometer scale below...
When I first received the Monopusher Chronograph, what really stood out was the contrast of the rose gold case and the black enamel dial. The black enamel dial immediately hits you with that high gloss (almost) flawless reflection. Black enamel dial as I understand it more difficult to make than white enamel dials but with the white Breguet numerals and red minute numerals, the contrast was rather striking. Lovely!
The 39mm rose gold case is polished to a high finish. If I recall correctly, each Montblanc 1858 Villeret timepiece is assembled by one watchmaker from start to end. And other than the case and strap, everything else is made in-house. Impressive!
And for the Grand Feu Enamel, as the name suggests, the enamel is fired in extremely high temperature - in excess of 800ºC. Layer by layer, the enamel is applied, allowed to cool, checked for consistency before the next round of firing. A friend once told me the beauty of an enamel dial is in the "imperfection"... no enamel dial is perfect - there will always be some imperfections. Therein lies the beauty as no two dials will be alike - visually to the naked eye perhaps, but on closer examination, eagle-eyed professionals will be able to tell. And that reflection on the dial is unmistakably grand feu enamel.
Details - the white Breguet numerals and bent chronograph hands add a special touch to the timepiece. The Breguet hands lends a vintage touch to the whole package.
The beauty in front is equally matched by the beauty at the back in the form of the Minerva Calibre 13-21 movement. A derivative of the vintage 13-20 (13 lignes and developed in 1920) movement, the reissue of the 13-20 was named the Calibre 13-21.
The upgrade is also focused on the fine finishing on these movements. Nicely polished edges and a well constructed movement.
One cannot lose focus on the Column wheel in this chronograph (see above). And the signature of any Minerva Chronograph is the Devil's tail (see below).
Look at the level of finishing on the movement... amazing!
In every Montblanc 1858 Villeret timepiece with a Minerva movement, the Calibre is engraved onto the movement plate. Seen here is the Minerva logo (arrow head) and the Calibre 13-21 inscribed onto the movement.
Montblanc uses the Minerva calibres in their haute-horology timepieces and the production numbers are low on these pieces. It is rather unusual to see a co-branded timepiece. But what Montblanc is doing with Minerva is exceptional. From "simple" three handed timepieces to Chronographs to Zero-Reset mechanism, Minerva certainly brings a lot into the relationship with Montblanc. And with the 1858 series, Montblanc used it to differentiate their offerings - 1 piece in Platinum, 8 pieces in white gold and 58 pieces in rose gold.
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