Wednesday 30 August 2023

Tutima Blues - The Patria Admiral

As I did research on the Tutima brand, it is said that the brand name is derived from the Latin word for “safe, secure.” Based in Glashütte as with many other watch manufacturing companies, the brand re-established themselves in 2011 when they released the Tutima Hommage Minute Repeater.

And they have gone from strength to strength. Not only did they designed their own Calibre 617 movement, they also produce their own spring barrel and oscillating system which is used in the minute repeater.

Encased in a 43mm stainless steel case, this beautifully proportioned Patria Admiral Blue

ABC

DEF (macro of hands and marker) below

Small Seconds below

Turn the timepiece around and that beautiful view of the Calibre 617

In-house designed and manufactured Calibre 617 is a manual winding movement with 65 hours of power reserve when fully wound.

The movement is made of German Silver plated copper?

More than decent finishing on the movement.

Polishing on the balance cock

Finishing

Tutima engraving

Closing

Movement details: Manual winding movement; Diameter 31 mm, height 4.78 mm, 20 jewels, 3 of which are set in screw-mounted gold chatons. Screw balance with weighted screws and 4 regulating screws in slotted, threaded holes. Index-free oscillating system with Breguet hairspring, openworked balance cock, Glashütte three-quarter-plate; 21,600 vph. Power reserve when fully wound 65 hours. Functions: Hour, minute, small seconds. Case details: Water-resistant 5 atm. Domed sapphire crystal anti-reflective. See-through back with sapphire crystal. Movement Calibre Tutima 617 Today, we design and develop our own watch movements, like caliber 617. This classic movement comprises 166 individual components of the highest quality, produced on CNC tooling machines and traditionally finished by hand. The self-produced spring barrel, gear train, and oscillating system are also utilized in the minute repeater.

Sunday 13 August 2023

Watches I Have Come Across - Vianney Halter Goldpfeil Jumping Hours Moonphase

Throughout my watch collecting journey, I have been blessed to have come across many timepieces and I intend to document them in this photo essay. These are timepieces I don't own but have been fortunate to be able to see, feel, touch and photograph them. This time, I feature the Vianney Halter Goldpfeil Moonphase Jumping Hours, property of a Mr. Andy Chua.

Goldpfeil was founded in 1856 in Offenbach, Germany, by Mr. Ludwig Krumm who focused on making luxury leather goods for the British, European and later global market. In 2001, together with 7 members of the “Académie Horlogère des Créteurs Indépendants” (AHCI) Goldpfeil commissioned a series of timepieces and one of it by Vianney Halter is the Jumping Hour Moonphase. The name Goldpfeil was inspired by a train that Mr. Krumm had travelled on while in UK. So impressed by the level of service on the "Golden Arrow", Mr. Krumm decided to translate that to German and Goldpfeil was born.

The Goldpfeil project included watchmakers like Antoine Preziuso, Bernard Lederer, Felix Baumgartner, Frank Jutzi, Svend Andersen, Vianney Halter and Vincent Calabrese. But here, I feature the timepiece from Vianney Halter.

The 40mm by 29mm white gold case showcases the jumping hour on the top left aperture, moonphase on the top right and the hours/seconds right at the centre.

The jumping hour display (above)...

The moonphase (above) which features an unsual display. Instead of a moonphase disc Vianney decided to do something different - using symbols instead. But what is interesting to note is that the moonphase is adjusted via the crown - no pushers here.

Then there is the minute and second hands - the minute hand modelling after the Goldpfeil symbol.

The case is unlike anything Vianney Halter has done. Compare this to the Classic...

The watch comes with an automatic movement. But the view is from the front.

What is also amazing is the case work... the hand hammered decoration gives the watch an exceptional look. Just wondering if this were hand made or machine made.

A really good looking timepiece I must say. Congrats to Andy, the owner of this awesome timepiece.

The other jumping hour complication in the Goldfeil series is from Vincent Calabrese (above). Both the VH and VC are excellent examples of what independent watchmakers can do. And AHCI has definitely come a long way, thanks to the vision and passion of many such masters like Vincent Calabrese and Vianney Halter. Unfortunately, the brand Goldpfeil no longer exists having gone into receivership in 2008.