Saturday, 19 April 2025

The Felipe Pikullik Mondphase One - The Most Complicated Yet

The Felipe Pikullik range of timepieces started off with using generic base movements artfully and skillfully finished to an exceptional level. Then came the Moonphase....

Using the UNITAS base movement, Felipe designed a module for the moonphase and inverted it to the dial side for easy visuals and adjustments.

It's not just any moonphase but a 3D moonphase to start off with.

Yup, that's right, a 3D Moonphase built into a UNITAS movement! Brilliant! The spherical 3D moon is located at the 10 o'clock position with the gear train at the 9 o'clock.

And to make it a little more complicated, the 40mm piece comes without any pushers. So how does one change the moonphase without having to wind the timepiece endlessly? That's when Felipe designed a quick change mechanism.

The moonphase mechanism is built with gears and levers and in this case the second wheel (higlighted as red ring in picture below) is where the control is.

Then there is the lever that turns with the time and is the quick change lever.

How to check if the lever is at the AM (morning) or PM (afternoon) cycle? When the lever (arrowed) is pointing right, it is at the AM (morning) cycle.

In this picture above, the lever is pointing left which means we are closer to midnight. So how does one change the moonphase?

The ingenious idea of using the pinion markers (see the 4 arrows in above picture) on the chapter ring for easy reference. The pinions hold the chapter ring to the dial.

When the lever is pointing left and the crown is pulled out, turn the crown to advance the hour hand to beyond the first marker (close to 1 o'clock) and the minute hand to beyond the second marker (just before the 5 o'clock). At that point, you will hear a click and when you do, turn the crown backwards for the hour hand to past the fourth marker (close to 11 o'clock) and the minute hand to past the third marker... then turn the crown forward again. Repeat and you will be able to see the moonphase advance.

Now for the backside which is equally captivating...

In his signature style of finishing, the UNITAS movement is skeletonised and finished to an extremly attractive level.

The view from the back showing the 3D moon and the details of the moon itself.

And the balance cock?

Nicely hand engraved... Mine is the Number 9 of a limited run of 20 pieces.

The full view from the back and the front below...

As I understand it, Felipe has developed his own Moonphase with an in-house developed movement and that will be released later part of 2025. For now, I am happy with my Moonphase One.

Saturday, 1 March 2025

Vulcain Cricket - To The Races Enamel - For Sale

The Le Locle based Swiss watchmaker Vulcain is famous for their Cricket alarm watches. What's better than a Cricket alarm watch? One with an enamel dial!

"To The Races" is a Limited Edition of 30 pieces featuring a high gloss Grand Feu Cloisonné Enamel dial in the famed cricket manual winding movement.

Some technical details of the Cricket movement:

Vulcain Cricket Calibre - manual winding V-10

Power Reserve - 42 hours

Frequency - 18,000 beats per hour

Case - rose gold case with solid case back

Case size - 39mm

Thickness - 13.2mm

Limitation Number - Number 8 of 30

Enjoy the photo essay of this very fine timepiece. Contact me via Instagram (@eddiesng1011) if you are keen to buy this watch.

Cloisonné (coming from the French word Cloison which means to partition) enamel is a decorative art technique that uses metal strips to create compartments before filling with enamel and firing it up.

What's so special about this piece is the colourful enamel which means a lot of intricate work goes to forming the dial, filling it with enamel and firing at different temperatures to achieve the final dial.

Fully serviced and in good working condition, the watch is in pristine condition.

The gloss on the enamel is superb - just take a look at the reflection on the seconds hand.

The hand with the pointer is for the alarm. The unique part of this timepiece is the crown at the 2 o'clock is the pusher for the alarm - when the alarm goes off, the crown pops up and to turn it off, one just needs to depress the crown to stop the buzzing.

The crown at 3 o'clock is the same as the the "normal" crown one would find - to wind the movement and to adjust the time. However, the time adjustment goes only in one direction.

In any case, this is a watch finding the right owner - someone who knows how to appreciate the finer things in watchmaking. Send me a DM through Instagram @eddiesng1011 if you are keen on this piece.

Saturday, 25 January 2025

The Anoma A1 First Series - Unconventional In Every Way!

Anoma Watches recently released their first creation - the A1 First Series and I have to say, its an absolute blast!

I have to say that this is perhaps one of my better acquisitions in recent years - the shape, the shade and the wearability... all fits!

The Anoma A1 First Series was launched at the end of 2024 and I just received mine, second week into January 2025.

The triangular ellipse shpaed case is so unique only few timepieces are done like this. Art Deco feel, a definitely a very unusual one at that. I have many timepieces but nothing that loos like this - one of a kind. Inspired by a table top, the case shape is instantaneously recognisable.

The two tone blue dial is also as striking as the case shape.

A bright blue brushed dial with a dark blue triangular ring brings out the vintage look of the timepiece.

The timepiece is also well designed when it comes to the thickness...

Measuring a thin 9.45mm, it wears thinner due to its inward curved bottom.

Due to the way the straps are installed and the lack of the traditional lugs, the watch also wear very comfortably for my small wirst.

Cleverly hidden crown underneath the case

The closed case back showing the recessed crown. Beating inside is an automatic Sellita SW100 movement.

The hands are also well made, highly polished and sized just right for the case and dial.

Having worn the timepiece for more than a week, the only downside of the piece is the recessed crown. It's quite difficult to pull out and when fully depressed, its rather difficult to wind.

I'd say this is one of my more funky and artsy timepiece and I'm loving it. A conversation starter I would say and one of those IYKYK timepiece. I can't wait for the second iteration.