Breguet La Tradition: A Living Legacy in Horology

In a world where modernity often overshadows heritage, Breguet’s La Tradition collection stands as a defiant tribute to the roots of watchmaking. It’s not just a timepiece - it’s a philosophical statement, a mechanical memoir, and a celebration of the genius of Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Few names in watchmaking resonate with history as profoundly as Breguet. Founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, one of the greatest horological minds in history, the maison has contributed inventions that shaped modern watchmaking — the Tourbillon, the Breguet balance spring, and the instantly recognizable Breguet hands and numerals.

While today’s watch market often emphasizes marketing over substance, the La Tradition collection stands as a reminder of Breguet’s unmatched heritage and technical artistry. And I am glad Breguet has chosen the La Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 to commemorate the brand’s 250th Anniversary.

The most striking feature of the La Tradition is its exposed movement, which is not merely for aesthetics but is a direct tribute to Breguet's Souscription watches from the 18th century. The original timepieces (pocket watches) featured a minimalist, open design that made their mechanics visible to the owner. The contemporary La Tradition range, including my reference 7097, takes this concept and elevates it. The main plate is meticulously decorated with a grained finish, providing a beautiful backdrop for the gears, springs and escapement to perform their intricate dance.

The off-centered dial at 12 o'clock, is another nod to the brand's heritage. The iconic guilloché pattern is a signature Abraham-Louis Breguet element, originally designed to prevent glare and add a layer of security to the watch face. The blued steel Breguet hands are also a classic hallmark, providing excellent legibility against the finely patterned dial which floats above a sea of exposed components, creating a striking contrast between refined elegance and raw mechanical power.

The dial side of the Breguet La Tradition is not so much a surface as it is a stage—where centuries-old horological principles perform in full view. Unlike traditional watches that conceal their mechanics beneath the dial, the 7097 and his brethrens boldly reverses the paradigm: the movement is the dial.

Beneath and around the dial, the movement reveals its inner workings with unapologetic clarity. The gear train is laid out symmetrically, echoing the architecture of Breguet’s original Souscription watches. Bridges are sculpted and chamfered with meticulous care, their matte finish providing a subtle backdrop that lets the polished screws and jewels shine.

The La Tradition reference 7097 distinguishes itself with its retrograde seconds complication. A small blued steel hand on a semi-circular scale at the 10 o'clock position arcs gracefully for 60 seconds before instantly jumping back to zero. This intricate mechanism is a mesmerizing visual spectacle that combines technical complexity with a poetic sense of motion. It is a prime example of how Breguet elevates a simple function into a work of art.

The movement's entire gear train is laid out bare for all to see. Poetry in motion, really. The balance wheel and escapement wheel, positioned prominently at 4 o’clock, pulses with life, its oscillations a constant reminder of the watch’s beating heart.

Smack in the middle, partially hidden below the dial is the main (power) barrel.

To the left at the 7 o'clock position is the second wheel and the one in the middle at the six is is the fourth wheel. The third wheel is under the second wheel.

Every component is not just functional but ornamental. The exposed gears, levers, and springs are arranged with deliberate symmetry, creating a sense of mechanical harmony that’s rare even among haute horlogerie. It’s a layout that invites contemplation, rewarding the wearer with new discoveries at every glance.

The "coin-edge" fluting on the case of the Breguet La Tradition is a design element that dates back to Abraham-Louis Breguet's early work. It's not just a decorative detail but a hallmark of the brand's heritage. This fine, vertical grooving on the side of the case, or "reeding," adds a distinctive tactile and visual element, giving the watch a unique identity and linking it directly to the brand's 18th-century origins. For many collectors, the coin-edge case is a subtle yet powerful symbol of Breguet's legacy and its dedication to classic horological aesthetics.

Flip the watch over, and you're greeted by a sapphire crystal caseback that reveals the movement in all its glory. The most striking feature is the rotor - crafted in the shape of a traditional anchor. This isn’t just aesthetic flair; it’s a symbolic nod to Breguet’s maritime connections and the brand’s historical commitment to precision and navigation.

Engraved with the Breguet name, the rotor glides with a smooth, deliberate motion — its mass perfectly balanced to optimize winding efficiency while maintaining visual harmony. It’s a subtle but powerful reminder that every detail in the La Tradition 7097 is considered, refined, and rooted in legacy.

While brands with aggressive marketing campaigns dominate the limelight, Breguet remains somewhat underappreciated - but not for too long I suspect. Yet for the true collector, this creates an opportunity. A La Tradition is not just a watch; it is a piece of living horological history, one that rewards those who value heritage, substance, legacy, and craftsmanship above social trends.

Inside the Heart of Time: My Chopard Watchmaking Masterclass Experience

There’s something magical about a luxury timepiece — the way it sits across the wrist, the quiet sweep of the seconds hand, the assured confidence it exudes. Having started my watch collecting journey more than 20 years ago, it is in sessions like these that truly makes you understand the art, precision and human touch behind every timepiece.

Over the course of two hours, under the steady guidance of a two seasoned Chopard watchmaker, Yves-Marie Kerebel and Owyang Kaiming, we were given a rare opportunity — to take apart and reassemble the Calibre 63.03-C movement. This wasn’t just a look under the hood; it was a deep dive into the mechanical soul of a fine mechanical watch.

The Chopard studio is an elegant, intimate space designed for hands-on horology experiences. Natural light pours in from large floor-to-ceiling windows on the left, offering a view of the Ngee Ann City building and greenery outside. Each of the 6 participant’s station is neatly arranged with a raised white work station accompanied by a comfortable tan leather chair.

On the right side of each table, a dark wooden presentation box — containing the watch tools and the training Calibre — sits ready for use. Bottled water and glasses are set out for each guest, adding a touch of the famed Chopard hospitality. If you know the brand long enough, you will know that they are about discreet luxury and attention to the little details.

We began with a pristine, fully assembled movement (above) laid out before us.

A guide book was also provided showing the step by step disassembly and assembly of the movement. Piece by piece, we disassembled it — bridges, screws, gears, — each removed in an exact sequence.

The watchmaker explained every component’s role: how the gear train transfers energy, how the escapement regulates time, how each jewel minimises friction. Even the tiniest part, barely visible to the naked eye, plays a critical role in the watch’s heartbeat.

We started by releasing the power reserve from the main barrel and then removing the balance cock and the balance wheel. Step by step, we were coached to carefully remove each component, learning along the way the names of the components and how they interact with each other to keep the watch ticking.

A fully disassembled movement with the winding crown intact.

The last piece to disassemble is the winding crown...

The reassembly was where the true challenge began. Taking out is easy... putting it back and ensuring it works is something else altogether! It demanded steady hands, keen eyes, and patience — qualities that professional watchmakers hone over decades. Aligning gears perfectly, setting pivots into their jeweled holes, ensuring the balance wheel came to life again — it was a moment of pure satisfaction when the movement finally ticked back to life under my own hands. Thanks in most part to the watchmakers at hand to assist...

And in true Chopard hospitality, we were hosted to lunch. More time to chat and learn from Yve-Marie and Kaiming. And unlike many other brands, the watchmakers in Chopard Singapore are trained to handle complications including servicing the Perpetual Calendars - no need to be sending them back to Switzerland. Impressive I must say.

Walking away from the session, I can again confirm that a luxury timepiece isn’t just an object of beauty; it’s a masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship. Every second it keeps is the result of countless hours of design, assembly, and finishing by skilled artisans. The L.U.C range as impressive as it is, houses all in-house movement and whenever I see an L.U.C, I don’t just see a watch — I see the heartbeat of time itself.

Some of the L.U.C timepieces belonging to the attendees.

Thanks Chopard, Garina, Jing Ting and Celeste for hosting a wonderfully organised Watchmaking Masterclass. Looking forward to the next event!

A Dream in Indigo: Unveiling the Habring² Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase Shellman Edition

As a watch collector, I believe that everyone should have a functional Habring² in their collection and I was always wanting one myself. The perfect time came in September 2024, when Shellman launched their 12th edition of the Watch Collector's Week.

Habring², the independent Austrian watchmaker, has carved a niche for itself with its commitment to minimalist aesthetics, and an unwavering focus on functional elegance.

The Oskar, a relatively new addition to their lineup, already impressed with its classical charm and the delightful combination of a pointer date and moon phase complication, powered by their robust A11Ups movement. But the Shellman Edition in Indigo takes this foundation and imbues it with a unique character that is both subtle and striking.

At first glance, the most immediate and profound difference lies in the dial color. While the standard Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase is available in a classic glossy white or a more contemporary blue galvanized dial, the Shellman Edition introduces a mesmerizing indigo hue. This isn't just any blue; it's a deep, rich indigo that shifts with the light, revealing subtle nuances that evoke the twilight sky. It's a color that speaks of sophistication and understated luxury, setting it apart from its siblings and giving it an almost poetic quality.

The choice of indigo is particularly poignant given Shellman's Japanese heritage. Indigo dyeing, or Aizome (藍染), boasts a rich and ancient history in Japan, dating back centuries.

From humble peasant clothing to the intricate textiles of the samurai, indigo was ubiquitous, prized not only for its striking beauty but also for its natural antibacterial and insect-repelling properties. The deep, varied shades of blue created through repeated dipping and oxidation became so iconic that, during the Meiji Restoration, Western visitors marvelling at the prevalence of blue across the nation coined the term "Japan Blue." This deep connection to a cultural cornerstone imbues the Shellman Edition's dial with a layer of meaning that transcends mere aesthetics, linking it directly to the heart of Japanese artistry and tradition.

Beyond the captivating color, the Shellman Edition often features specific details that further distinguish it.

Dial Finishing (above): Unlike the regular version, the dial in this Shellman edition is slightly different. The two step dial if finished differently with the periphery being finished with a circular sunburst pattern while the centre is matte finished. Due to the difference in finishing, this indigo dial has a depth of colour that gives it a different hue when you view from different angles.

Numeral and Hand Treatment: The application or finish of the Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands might be subtly altered to complement the indigo dial. This could involve different plating, a unique polishing, or even a specific lume application that harmonizes with the overall aesthetic.

Moon Phase Disc: While the Oskar's moon phase display is already a highlight, a limited edition might feature a slightly different depiction of the moon or stars on the disc, adding an exclusive touch for collectors.

These subtle yet impactful changes transform the watch from a general release into a more exclusive and collectible piece. The indigo dial, in particular, offers a sense of individuality that the more widely available white and blue versions, while beautiful in their own right, cannot quite match.

Regardless of the edition, the Habring² Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase remains a horological triumph. Its 38.5mm stainless steel case is perfectly proportioned for my smaller wrist, sitting elegantly on the wrist without being overly assertive. The 9mm height (or around 10.3mm with the domed sapphire crystal) is remarkably thin for a watch housing a moon phase and pointer date complication, a testament to Habring²'s masterful movement architecture.

To adjust the date or moon-phase, the pusher at the 4 o'clock position on the case allows one to adjust from there (see profile above picture). The first push advances the date while a deeper push advances both date and moon-phase simultaneously.

The A11Ups manual-winding movement is as one would expect of a Habring² - simple finishing on a funcational movement. Habring²'s commitment to in-house production and finishing is evident in the polished edges, decorative engravings, and perlage visible on the movement through the open caseback. With a 48-hour power reserve and beating at 28,800 vph (4Hz), it's a reliable and accurate workhorse.

The dial layout, with the moon phase and small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and the pointer date encircling the periphery, is remarkably balanced and legible. The vintage-inspired Breguet numerals lend a timeless appeal, while the highly polished leaf-shaped hands provide clear time indication against an indigo dial.

This particular Shellman Edition holds special significance as it marks the 12th anniversary of Shellman's Watch Collector Week. Shellman, the esteemed Tokyo-based independent watch retailer, has long been a pivotal force in the Japanese and global watch collecting scene.

Shellman's annual Watch Collector Week, often held at prestigious venues like Isetan Shinjuku, is a testament to their dedication to showcasing the finest in watchmaking. These events are not just sales opportunities but educational experiences, bringing together watchmakers, enthusiasts, and industry experts to share knowledge and foster a vibrant community.

This Habring² Indigo edition (alongside other releases), presented during the 12th year of Shellman's celebrated Watch Collector Week, not only highlights the enduring appeal of the Oskar but also solidifies the fruitful partnership between these two influential entities in the world of fine watches. For those seeking a watch that is both technically superb and visually captivating, this celestial dream in indigo, imbued with the spirit of a decade-long collaborative legacy and the rich heritage of "Japan Blue," is undoubtedly a piece to cherish.