An Independent Watchmaker Worth A Revisit - Peter Speake-Marin

There are watches that impress instantly, and there are watches that reveal themselves slowly. My rose gold Speake-Marin belongs firmly to the latter category. It is not a watch that shouts, nor one that competes for attention in a crowded room. Instead, it rewards familiarity – that case shape and lug type – truly signature Speake-Marin.

I have owned more than one Speake-Marin, but this rose gold piece has gradually become the one I return to most often. Perhaps it is the warmth of the metal, or perhaps it is the unmistakably English spirit expressed through Swiss craft. Either way, it has aged with me — gracefully, honestly, without pretence.

The Piccadilly Case: Early Intentions

Signature Speake-Marin extended lugs and over-sized crown in the Resilience - both the 38mm (rose gold) and the 42mm (white enamel).

The case is the Piccadilly, one of Peter Speake-Marin’s earliest and most recognisable designs. When I asked him about it years ago, he told me simply that the white enamel dialled version was “one of the very first 42mm cases I made.” That statement alone gives the watch a certain historical gravity.

In rose gold, the Piccadilly case takes on a softer, almost architectural presence. The 38mm proportions suits me better, with the same straight lugs and a profile that sits comfortably on the wrist because of its diameter. Unlike many modern gold watches, it avoids excess polish or flamboyance.

An Engraved Dial That Demands Attention

Hand engraving on a watch dial is a quiet celebration of human artistry, where precision meets individuality. Though the design may follow a defined pattern, each line is cut by hand, guided by the engraver’s skill, pressure, and instinct in that exact moment.

No two strokes are ever perfectly identical, and subtle variations in depth, spacing, and texture naturally emerge. These minute differences give every dial its own character, catching light in a slightly different way and revealing a unique visual rhythm.

As a result, even dials that appear similar at first glance are, in truth, singular works of craftsmanship — each one bearing the unmistakable imprint of the artisan who created it. And, no, the engraving is not done by Peter but an engraver located in a town next to his.

An Enamel Dial With Character

The white enamel dial is one of the highlights of this watch.

It is not flawless in the way modern industrial dials strive to be — and that is precisely its charm. Peter confirmed that these early grand feu enamel dials were produced by Donzé, a name well respected among traditional enamel specialists.

The details of the Roman numerals clearly shows that these are hand painted, then fired.

Under different light, the dial shifts subtly, revealing depth and texture that other material dials simply cannot replicate. Paired with heated-treated blued hands and restrained Roman typography, the result feels timeless.

Peter once described his inspiration for this design as early 18th-century English pocket watches, and that lineage is unmistakable. As for the rose gold beauty, no two hand engraved dials while engraved by the same engraver and in the same way are identical, a subtle play that demands close attention. Under natural light, the engraved gold dial comes alive, its texture shifting with every movement of the wrist.

Beneath the Dial: Honest Watchmaking

At its heart lies a modified ETA base movement — something that might give pause to those chasing exotic calibres. But context matters. These were Peter’s very first pieces, built at a time when resources were limited but intent was clear.

So, what kinds of modification did he make to the base ETA movement?

The movement FW2012 is an automatic movement using an outsourced ébauche. The "topping tool" rotor is a distinctive design signature and brand logo for Speake-Marin watches, shaped like an antique watchmaking tool used for finishing gear teeth.

He explained to me that the movement was not simply dropped in and forgotten. The setting mechanism was simplified. The automatic mechanism was rebuilt and hand-finished, the rotor bridge and mass redesigned such that they could hand finish personalised components, and components such as the cannon pinion and hour wheel upgraded.

Regulation was done carefully, by hand, with time and patience. To improve accuracy of the timepiece, Peter regulated the escapement and performed a series of adjustments to the balance assembly and hairspring.

As Peter himself put it:

“All very simple things but these watches were my very first pieces and they look as good today as when I made them which was a few years ago now. The Resilience was one of the first two pieces I design in 2002 and first made in 2003.”

Years later, I can confirm that statement without hesitation.

Small Details - The Buckle

Even the buckle is signed and the amount of work going into making the buckle shows the little details that matter to Peter.

Wearing the Watch Today

In an era of oversized branding and aggressive designs, this rose gold and enamel dial Speake-Marin feels refreshingly sincere. It is elegant without being fragile, distinctive without being loud. The gold piece has developed a gentle patina, the enamel dial remains quietly luminous, and the watch continues to do exactly what it was made to do — tell time beautifully.

The early year Speake-Marin watches were created during a period when independent watchmaking was driven more by conviction than visibility, and it carries that spirit proudly.

Final Thoughts

Looking at this watch today I am reminded why independent watchmaking matters. Not every piece needs to be revolutionary. Some simply need to be honest.

This rose gold Speake-Marin is exactly that: an honest expression of a watchmaker finding his voice, shaped by English heritage, executed in Switzerland, and worn years later by someone who values the story as much as the object.

And that, to me, is what makes it special.

Weaving Malay Heritage into Watchmaking - Waktu Horology

Every year post COVID, Singapore has hosted a watch microbrand fair - Spring Sprang Sprung and it is at this kind of fair that you meet some very interesting new watch brands. One such brand I encountered in the 2025 edition is Waktu Horology.

An Interview with Dahliah Kamaru Zaman - Founder of Waktu Horology.

In the world of horology, where heritage brands often dominate the conversation, a new voice is emerging from Singapore, one that speaks with the rich history of the Nusantara region. This is the story of Dahliah, the founder of Waktu Horology - not just a watch collector or a brand owner, but a storyteller who is using the face of a watch to celebrate an entire culture. Her journey proves that a true passion for watches isn't just about mechanics; it's about meaning.

So who is Dahliah the collector and brand owner?

Growing up in Bukit Panjang, Dahliah’s path seemed set for the sciences. Yet, this direction only intensified a simmering artistic curiosity. It was this very tension that propelled her into the worlds of brand management, events planning, and marketing - fields where she could finally flex her creative muscles. It was here, at the intersection of precision and narrative, that she found her calling. A role within the watch industry at age 26 was the catalyst. The intricate dance of gears and springs, married with timeless design, captivated her. But it was a single timepiece that truly ignited the flame of collecting.

What sparked her watch-collecting journey?

The Spark: A Kurono Tokyo and a Cultural Revelation

“The true spark came from a sense of achievement and revelation,” Dahliah recalls, speaking of the moment she was gifted the celebrated Kurono Tokyo Seiji. Admiring the work of esteemed independent watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, she had a profound realization: every piece of horology could hold a deep, personal connection. This sparked a question that would become her mission: “Why couldn't that storytelling be dedicated to Malay heritage?” The precision and permanence of a mechanical watch suddenly presented itself as the perfect vessel to ensure the culture and artistry of the Nusantara could be appreciated on a regional and global stage.

What does Waktu want to showcase?

Building Waktu Horology: A Brand Rooted in Culture and Respect.

Driven by this newfound purpose, Waktu Horology was born. The brand’s inaugural collection - featuring different designs directly translates intricate Malay and Nusantara patterns into elegant dials. Each piece is a wearable piece of cultural heritage. “I believe horology is fundamentally more than just status,” she states. “It is an appreciation for design, mechanics, and the expression of a unique story that a timepiece carries.” Her respect is reserved for those who buy to commemorate a genuine milestone or passion, a principle that lies at the very heart of Waktu Horology.

Share a little about the design language on your timepieces.

At the heart of every Waktu Horology timepiece lies the stylised “W” at 9 o’clock, a symbol that transcends design to embody Malay heritage. More than an initial, it integrates the tanjak naga berlabuh - a traditional Malay headpiece that signifies identity, refinement, and respect.

The naga, a dragon in Malay folklore, represents wisdom, power, and protection, while berlabuh evokes stability and connection to ancestral roots. Together, they form a potent metaphor: time intertwined with tradition. The W logo is not just a mark of craftsmanship, but a living narrative of strength, culture, and legacy - an emblem that ensures every Waktu Horology watch carries forward the enduring spirit of the Malay heritage.

The motif on the hands extend the brand’s cultural narrative, complementing the W logo with artistry drawn from Malay tradition. The hour hand, shaped in the spirit of the pucuk rebung motif, depicts a bamboo shoot, symbolizing growth and the continuous journey of time. In harmony, the minute hand reflects the bunga pecah lapan, its eight-petaled geometry evoking balance and grace in every sweep. Together, these motifs transform functional elements into miniature works of art. Just as the logo anchors time in heritage, the hands animate it, ensuring that every glance at the dial is a reminder of Malay culture’s enduring strength and refinement.

A little about the current collection.

The Kalbu collection carries forward the spirit of Dahliah’s grandfather, whose stories of the sea revealed both its dangers and its hidden wonders. Just as he spoke of sirens and mermaids - mysteries that blurred the line between myth and reality - the Kalbu embraces that duality through its design. The choice of Mother-of-Pearl for the dial is deliberate: it is born from the ocean itself, shimmering with iridescence that mirrors the light breaking through darkness. This material symbolizes the beauty that emerges from treachery, echoing her grandfather’s belief in courage amidst uncertainty.

The Gelap variant, with its interplay of shadow and luminescence, becomes a tribute to those who, like him, braved the unknown seas with unwavering conviction. Each Kalbu timepiece is not only a watch, but a legacy - an heirloom of resilience and imagination.

The Gelap dial captures the treacherous mystery of the deep seas with its dark, shadowed tones, setting it apart from the luminous white and romantic pink Mother-of-Pearl dials that symbolize clarity and hope.

The Mother-of-Pearl dial reveals its true versatility as it transforms with every shift in light - radiant, iridescent, and endlessly captivating.

The Puteh (white dial) evokes purity and clarity, echoing the calm after a storm when the horizon opens wide and sailors find their bearings once more. It honors the certainty her grandfather spoke of - the unwavering conviction that light will always break through darkness.

The pink dial, Mawar adds a more romantic dimension, reminiscent of dawn over the water, when the first rays of sunlight transform the sea into a canvas of warmth and promise. It symbolizes resilience with gentleness, a reminder that beauty often emerges from the harshest journeys.

The Mawar dial, with its delicate rose hue drawn from Mother-of-Pearl, embodies romance, warmth, and resilience—making it a graceful and empowering choice for ladies who value elegance with meaning.

Together, these dials extend the narrative of the Kalbu collection: from the perilous allure of the Gelap to the serene and hopeful tones of white and pink, each piece becomes a chapter in a story of courage, mystery, and the timeless dialogue between sea and sky

The Hitam: A study in timeless elegance. Its deep black enamel dial captures the quiet strength of nightfall - sleek, refined, and unwavering. A watch that speaks not in volume, but in presence.

The black enamel dial, with its high reflectiveness, creates a striking contrast that amplifies the precision and elegance of the sweeping minute and second hands.

What's your pet peeve in watch collecting?

My primary focus, both as a collector and as the founder of Waktu Horology, is on authenticity and appreciation within the community. My deepest concern is the tendency toward horological exclusivity, where some enthusiasts dismiss the innovation and technical achievements of smaller, independent creators. I believe horology should be defined by an appreciation for design, technical effort, and the unique story a timepiece tells, not solely by market value or heritage. We reserve our greatest respect for collectors who acquire a watch to genuinely commemorate a personal milestone or passion, rather than for purely ostentatious display.

This commitment to passion over pure transaction also extends to the practice of 'flipping.' It's disheartening to see the secondary market become dominated by individuals focused solely on quick profit, as this often prevents sincere enthusiasts and loyal brand supporters from acquiring the pieces they truly desire. At Waktu Horology, our mission is built on culture and genuine passion, and we seek to cultivate a community that prioritizes these values.

So, what’s next for Waktu Horology?

Dahliah is focused on expanding the brand’s footprint as a curator of culture.

The vision for Waktu 2.0 includes creating an entire ecosystem of accessible luxury accessories. Think premium leather watch pads and straps, infused with original art inspired by maps of the Malay Peninsula, intricate songket motifs, and tributes to Malay heroes.

On the design front, she is actively researching new watch hands and dial textures, drawing from customer suggestions and deep historical research. Ideas like keris-inspired watch hands and classic batik patterns are being balanced against authenticity to ensure every detail remains rooted in truth.

The ultimate goal? To see Waktu Horology recognized globally for its unique effort in preserving Malay heritage. Dahliah looks forward to collaborating with institutions like the Malay Heritage Centre, establishing horology as a credible and exciting new medium for telling the timeless stories of her culture.

With her passion, keen eye for details and story behind the heritage, I am sure there will be pleasant surprises with Waktu Horology. We wish Dahliah and Waktu Horology a successful journey ahead!

Breguet La Tradition: A Living Legacy in Horology

In a world where modernity often overshadows heritage, Breguet’s La Tradition collection stands as a defiant tribute to the roots of watchmaking. It’s not just a timepiece - it’s a philosophical statement, a mechanical memoir, and a celebration of the genius of Abraham-Louis Breguet.

Few names in watchmaking resonate with history as profoundly as Breguet. Founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, one of the greatest horological minds in history, the maison has contributed inventions that shaped modern watchmaking — the Tourbillon, the Breguet balance spring, and the instantly recognizable Breguet hands and numerals.

While today’s watch market often emphasizes marketing over substance, the La Tradition collection stands as a reminder of Breguet’s unmatched heritage and technical artistry. And I am glad Breguet has chosen the La Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 to commemorate the brand’s 250th Anniversary.

The most striking feature of the La Tradition is its exposed movement, which is not merely for aesthetics but is a direct tribute to Breguet's Souscription watches from the 18th century. The original timepieces (pocket watches) featured a minimalist, open design that made their mechanics visible to the owner. The contemporary La Tradition range, including my reference 7097, takes this concept and elevates it. The main plate is meticulously decorated with a grained finish, providing a beautiful backdrop for the gears, springs and escapement to perform their intricate dance.

The off-centered dial at 12 o'clock, is another nod to the brand's heritage. The iconic guilloché pattern is a signature Abraham-Louis Breguet element, originally designed to prevent glare and add a layer of security to the watch face. The blued steel Breguet hands are also a classic hallmark, providing excellent legibility against the finely patterned dial which floats above a sea of exposed components, creating a striking contrast between refined elegance and raw mechanical power.

The dial side of the Breguet La Tradition is not so much a surface as it is a stage—where centuries-old horological principles perform in full view. Unlike traditional watches that conceal their mechanics beneath the dial, the 7097 and his brethrens boldly reverses the paradigm: the movement is the dial.

Beneath and around the dial, the movement reveals its inner workings with unapologetic clarity. The gear train is laid out symmetrically, echoing the architecture of Breguet’s original Souscription watches. Bridges are sculpted and chamfered with meticulous care, their matte finish providing a subtle backdrop that lets the polished screws and jewels shine.

The La Tradition reference 7097 distinguishes itself with its retrograde seconds complication. A small blued steel hand on a semi-circular scale at the 10 o'clock position arcs gracefully for 60 seconds before instantly jumping back to zero. This intricate mechanism is a mesmerizing visual spectacle that combines technical complexity with a poetic sense of motion. It is a prime example of how Breguet elevates a simple function into a work of art.

The movement's entire gear train is laid out bare for all to see. Poetry in motion, really. The balance wheel and escapement wheel, positioned prominently at 4 o’clock, pulses with life, its oscillations a constant reminder of the watch’s beating heart.

Smack in the middle, partially hidden below the dial is the main (power) barrel.

To the left at the 7 o'clock position is the second wheel and the one in the middle at the six is is the fourth wheel. The third wheel is under the second wheel.

Every component is not just functional but ornamental. The exposed gears, levers, and springs are arranged with deliberate symmetry, creating a sense of mechanical harmony that’s rare even among haute horlogerie. It’s a layout that invites contemplation, rewarding the wearer with new discoveries at every glance.

The "coin-edge" fluting on the case of the Breguet La Tradition is a design element that dates back to Abraham-Louis Breguet's early work. It's not just a decorative detail but a hallmark of the brand's heritage. This fine, vertical grooving on the side of the case, or "reeding," adds a distinctive tactile and visual element, giving the watch a unique identity and linking it directly to the brand's 18th-century origins. For many collectors, the coin-edge case is a subtle yet powerful symbol of Breguet's legacy and its dedication to classic horological aesthetics.

Flip the watch over, and you're greeted by a sapphire crystal caseback that reveals the movement in all its glory. The most striking feature is the rotor - crafted in the shape of a traditional anchor. This isn’t just aesthetic flair; it’s a symbolic nod to Breguet’s maritime connections and the brand’s historical commitment to precision and navigation.

Engraved with the Breguet name, the rotor glides with a smooth, deliberate motion — its mass perfectly balanced to optimize winding efficiency while maintaining visual harmony. It’s a subtle but powerful reminder that every detail in the La Tradition 7097 is considered, refined, and rooted in legacy.

While brands with aggressive marketing campaigns dominate the limelight, Breguet remains somewhat underappreciated - but not for too long I suspect. Yet for the true collector, this creates an opportunity. A La Tradition is not just a watch; it is a piece of living horological history, one that rewards those who value heritage, substance, legacy, and craftsmanship above social trends.