An Independent Watchmaker Worth A Revisit - Peter Speake-Marin

There are watches that impress instantly, and there are watches that reveal themselves slowly. My rose gold Speake-Marin belongs firmly to the latter category. It is not a watch that shouts, nor one that competes for attention in a crowded room. Instead, it rewards familiarity – that case shape and lug type – truly signature Speake-Marin.

I have owned more than one Speake-Marin, but this rose gold piece has gradually become the one I return to most often. Perhaps it is the warmth of the metal, or perhaps it is the unmistakably English spirit expressed through Swiss craft. Either way, it has aged with me — gracefully, honestly, without pretence.

The Piccadilly Case: Early Intentions

Signature Speake-Marin extended lugs and over-sized crown in the Resilience - both the 38mm (rose gold) and the 42mm (white enamel).

The case is the Piccadilly, one of Peter Speake-Marin’s earliest and most recognisable designs. When I asked him about it years ago, he told me simply that the white enamel dialled version was “one of the very first 42mm cases I made.” That statement alone gives the watch a certain historical gravity.

In rose gold, the Piccadilly case takes on a softer, almost architectural presence. The 38mm proportions suits me better, with the same straight lugs and a profile that sits comfortably on the wrist because of its diameter. Unlike many modern gold watches, it avoids excess polish or flamboyance.

An Engraved Dial That Demands Attention

Hand engraving on a watch dial is a quiet celebration of human artistry, where precision meets individuality. Though the design may follow a defined pattern, each line is cut by hand, guided by the engraver’s skill, pressure, and instinct in that exact moment.

No two strokes are ever perfectly identical, and subtle variations in depth, spacing, and texture naturally emerge. These minute differences give every dial its own character, catching light in a slightly different way and revealing a unique visual rhythm.

As a result, even dials that appear similar at first glance are, in truth, singular works of craftsmanship — each one bearing the unmistakable imprint of the artisan who created it. And, no, the engraving is not done by Peter but an engraver located in a town next to his.

An Enamel Dial With Character

The white enamel dial is one of the highlights of this watch.

It is not flawless in the way modern industrial dials strive to be — and that is precisely its charm. Peter confirmed that these early grand feu enamel dials were produced by Donzé, a name well respected among traditional enamel specialists.

The details of the Roman numerals clearly shows that these are hand painted, then fired.

Under different light, the dial shifts subtly, revealing depth and texture that other material dials simply cannot replicate. Paired with heated-treated blued hands and restrained Roman typography, the result feels timeless.

Peter once described his inspiration for this design as early 18th-century English pocket watches, and that lineage is unmistakable. As for the rose gold beauty, no two hand engraved dials while engraved by the same engraver and in the same way are identical, a subtle play that demands close attention. Under natural light, the engraved gold dial comes alive, its texture shifting with every movement of the wrist.

Beneath the Dial: Honest Watchmaking

At its heart lies a modified ETA base movement — something that might give pause to those chasing exotic calibres. But context matters. These were Peter’s very first pieces, built at a time when resources were limited but intent was clear.

So, what kinds of modification did he make to the base ETA movement?

The movement FW2012 is an automatic movement using an outsourced ébauche. The "topping tool" rotor is a distinctive design signature and brand logo for Speake-Marin watches, shaped like an antique watchmaking tool used for finishing gear teeth.

He explained to me that the movement was not simply dropped in and forgotten. The setting mechanism was simplified. The automatic mechanism was rebuilt and hand-finished, the rotor bridge and mass redesigned such that they could hand finish personalised components, and components such as the cannon pinion and hour wheel upgraded.

Regulation was done carefully, by hand, with time and patience. To improve accuracy of the timepiece, Peter regulated the escapement and performed a series of adjustments to the balance assembly and hairspring.

As Peter himself put it:

“All very simple things but these watches were my very first pieces and they look as good today as when I made them which was a few years ago now. The Resilience was one of the first two pieces I design in 2002 and first made in 2003.”

Years later, I can confirm that statement without hesitation.

Small Details - The Buckle

Even the buckle is signed and the amount of work going into making the buckle shows the little details that matter to Peter.

Wearing the Watch Today

In an era of oversized branding and aggressive designs, this rose gold and enamel dial Speake-Marin feels refreshingly sincere. It is elegant without being fragile, distinctive without being loud. The gold piece has developed a gentle patina, the enamel dial remains quietly luminous, and the watch continues to do exactly what it was made to do — tell time beautifully.

The early year Speake-Marin watches were created during a period when independent watchmaking was driven more by conviction than visibility, and it carries that spirit proudly.

Final Thoughts

Looking at this watch today I am reminded why independent watchmaking matters. Not every piece needs to be revolutionary. Some simply need to be honest.

This rose gold Speake-Marin is exactly that: an honest expression of a watchmaker finding his voice, shaped by English heritage, executed in Switzerland, and worn years later by someone who values the story as much as the object.

And that, to me, is what makes it special.

A Collector’s Take: The Thoughtful Design Behind Z.L.Toh’s Series 1

In a world where independent watchmaking is synonymous with high end watchmaking and astronomical pricing, it’s a breadth of fresh air that Kenny is taking with Z.L. Toh Watches - soon to be renamed ZLTD Watches.

Founded in Singapore by a dedicated enthusiast, Kenny, Z.L.Toh Watches set out with a clear mission: to bring handcrafted watchmaking to a wider audience, and most importantly make it affordable. His inaugural collection, Series 1, was a testament to this vision, quickly selling out and allowing Kenny to personally immerse himself in the craft, deepening his respect for independent watchmakers.

There’s something deeply rewarding about a watch that is customisable because it feels as if it were made for you. Not just a beautiful object, but a timepiece where every design element whispers of tradition, craftsmanship, and quiet, considered choices. That’s exactly what drew me to the Series 1.

I had met with Kenny over lunch some time back in December 2024 and we discussed about the Series 1 project and what the design DNA are. Kenny is clear about what he wanted and how each owner (15 of us) can select their own customisation. While the case and the movement have been set, the dial, hands and strap are all customisable. These are some of the early images of Series 1 prior to the release... The hands on the prototype were deemd below standard by Kenny and hence he went on to improve on those hands before the first piece went to the final customer.

First the black rhodium dial (below)...

Then the silver rhodium dial (below)...

If you compare the pre-release prototype to the one I received, you will notice the difference is in the hands.

Now to my impression of the timepiece. Let’s start with the case design. For a dress watch, the case is paramount, and Series 1 nails it with a focus on both form and function. The polished case exudes ergonomic refinement and some interesting details.

For a dress watch, its the dimensions that matter - A 38.5mm case diameter strikes that perfect balance for a refined presence on the wrist, neither too large nor too small. Paired with a compact lug-to-lug of under 45mm, it ensures an elegant fit for most wrists. And at less than 8mm in thickness, it slips effortlessly under any cuff, maintaining that sleek, understated profile essential for a true dress piece.

The inclusion of dual lug holes is a thoughtful touch, offering seamless compatibility with both curved and straight straps – a collector's dream for strap versatility. Versatility in Design!

The lug design itself is a masterclass, merging the classic "cow horn" and "teardrop" forms into something uniquely elegant. These downward-sloping lugs aren't just for aesthetics; they're engineered for ergonomic wear, ensuring the watch naturally conforms to your wrist for unparalleled comfort. The fully polished case further enhances its dress watch elegance, catching the light beautifully. So, its not just a nod to heritage, but also true to form.

The dial is available in two monochrome variants – "Silver" and "Black Rhodium" – this deliberate choice serves two key purposes. First, it provides a striking contrast that makes the mirror-polished indices truly pop. Second, it beautifully showcases the intricate craft of heat-treating the watch hands to a specific, vibrant color. Notice the brand name nicely edged onto the outer ring keeping the dial uncluttered. Nice touch!

A simple yet elegant guilloché floral pattern adorns the dial, a subtle dance of light and shadow that truly comes alive, shifting dynamically under different angles and lighting conditions. It's a captivating detail that rewards close inspection. While it is machine crafted and not hand turned, the dial is still a sight to behold.

The proud achievement comes from the finishing on the hour indices showcasing the art of mirror polishing. Here's where the dedication to demanding craft truly shines. For Series 1, a key objective was to highlight the painstaking art of mirror/black polishing.

Meticulous Craftsmanship: Every single hour index on the dial undergoes a laborious, multi-stage process. Each index is polished with various grits of sandpaper, then refined to perfection with pegwood and successive grades of diamond paste. Once polished to a flawless sheen, each index is then carefully installed onto the dial, piece by piece. This commitment to detail by Kenny is a testament to true horological artistry.

One detail not mentioned are the minute indices on the outer ring - the holes are painstakingly hand filled with black lacquer.

The other customisable element are the hands. Complementing the dial are the elegant Breguet-style hands, chosen for their timeless appeal.

This is where I learnt something new - the unique hues of the steel heated hands is an art in itself. While the alchemy of heat treatment is a science, getting it right is an art. I selected the silver rhodium dial and to complement the look, mine is the purple hands to provide contrast too.

Each hand is first meticulously high-polished before being heat-treated to a vibrant color – straw, purple, or blue – to perfectly complement your chosen dial variant. This heat treatment process demands immense patience and skill to achieve a precise hue. Purple, in particular, is the most challenging, requiring swift precision as it transitions to blue in a very narrow window.

Because of this handmade, manual process, each watch hand in Series 1 will possess its own truly unique, heat-tempered hue, making your timepiece even more special and distinct.

Nice but not perfect yet... Herein lies the beauty of handcraft. That fraction of a second too slow or too fast makes a world of difference. Experience, they say, comes with dedication and obsession to achieve perfection. And I am sure Kenny will get there with his dedication and attention to detail.

Flip over a Series 1 timepiece, and you're greeted by a captivating open case-back, offering a window into its mechanical heart. Kenny chose the Sellita SW210 manual winding movement which was meticulously finished to an Élaboré grade.

You'll notice the elegant Geneva stripes, delicate circular graining on the main plate, striking blued screws, radiant sunburst ratchet wheels, and Rhodium plating. To keep the cost down and speed up the delivery, the movement is finished by the manufacture, not hand finished. But like I said, in order to keep the cost down, this was inevitably the sacrifice.

The choice of the Sellita SW210 was deliberate. It is small enough and it's renowned for its exceptional robustness and superb timekeeping accuracy, all while allowing the brand to achieve the slim profile essential for an ideal dress watch.

A fully polished case enhances the Series 1’s dressy credentials, while those sloping lugs and dual holes ensure a comfortable fit on a wide range of wrists. What’s the perfect compliment? The icing on the cake? Handcrafted strap and Kenny chose Atelier Kai for his exceptional straps - a partnership in perfection.

Every strap is meticulously hand-stitched and tailored to each customer's specific wrist size. Atelier Kai's unwavering dedication to handmade artistry and exceptional quality makes them the perfect partner, ensuring a comfortable fit for the wrist of discerning collectors. For me, I chose the Glazed Purple Ostrich Leg Strap no prize why I chose purple.

What's my final impression? In a world dominated by high priced independent watchmakers, I value what ZL Toh Watches bring to the table. Affordable customised timepieces. Is it perfectly executed? No, but an extremely good first release one that provides great value for the buck. For what I paid, it's worth every cent and more. Proudly Made in Singapore, I can safely say nothing comes remotely close in the Swiss Made camp. As the brand evolves into ZLTD Watches, one thing remains certain — these are watches made by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. Series 1.5 is on the way and for those who missed out on Series 1, be quick! Stay tuned!

Super Machines & Horological Machines - Independents Part 2

Kari Voutilainen as the name sounds is hardly Swiss by birth. Started his early watchmaking training in his native Finland, Kari moved to Switzerland later on and worked for companies like Parmigiani.

I had the fortune of meeting the man during the Super Machines and Horological Heroes exhibition. A very soft spoken person, his watches are unmistakably Kari - the hands are the hallmark of Kari. Hand crafted works of horology. Seen here are three watches on display at the exhibition. The Observatoire, V-8R Power Reserve and the GMT Six O'Clock.

The most famed of all is his Observatoire - exacting standards of accuracy and the well guilloché dials. Voted Favourite Men's Watch in 2007 by the GPHG.

Then a unique GMT watch - one with a decorated centre with a GMT and Day/Night indicator at Six O'Clock. Interesting centre with the planets in full display.

Then the V-8R watch. Comes with the power reserve and an in-house developed movement.

The watch is typically well finished with high levels of guilloché patterns. The words "Hand Made" adorn the bottom of the dial instead of Swiss Made.

And this is a shot of the man himself.

And another shot of Kari in a more relaxed setting...

The next post will feature Vianney Halter and his watches on display at the Super Machines and Horological Heroes exhibition at Paragon Shopping Centre (18-30 Sep 2013). Thanks to The Hour Glass for hosting the exhibition featuring the Grand Masters of Independent Watchmaking.