In a world where modernity often overshadows heritage, Breguet’s La Tradition collection stands as a defiant tribute to the roots of watchmaking. It’s not just a timepiece - it’s a philosophical statement, a mechanical memoir, and a celebration of the genius of Abraham-Louis Breguet.
Few names in watchmaking resonate with history as profoundly as Breguet. Founded in 1775 by Abraham-Louis Breguet, one of the greatest horological minds in history, the maison has contributed inventions that shaped modern watchmaking — the Tourbillon, the Breguet balance spring, and the instantly recognizable Breguet hands and numerals.
While today’s watch market often emphasizes marketing over substance, the La Tradition collection stands as a reminder of Breguet’s unmatched heritage and technical artistry. And I am glad Breguet has chosen the La Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 to commemorate the brand’s 250th Anniversary.
The most striking feature of the La Tradition is its exposed movement, which is not merely for aesthetics but is a direct tribute to Breguet's Souscription watches from the 18th century. The original timepieces (pocket watches) featured a minimalist, open design that made their mechanics visible to the owner. The contemporary La Tradition range, including my reference 7097, takes this concept and elevates it. The main plate is meticulously decorated with a grained finish, providing a beautiful backdrop for the gears, springs and escapement to perform their intricate dance.
The off-centered dial at 12 o'clock, is another nod to the brand's heritage. The iconic guilloché pattern is a signature Abraham-Louis Breguet element, originally designed to prevent glare and add a layer of security to the watch face. The blued steel Breguet hands are also a classic hallmark, providing excellent legibility against the finely patterned dial which floats above a sea of exposed components, creating a striking contrast between refined elegance and raw mechanical power.
The dial side of the Breguet La Tradition is not so much a surface as it is a stage—where centuries-old horological principles perform in full view. Unlike traditional watches that conceal their mechanics beneath the dial, the 7097 and his brethrens boldly reverses the paradigm: the movement is the dial.
Beneath and around the dial, the movement reveals its inner workings with unapologetic clarity. The gear train is laid out symmetrically, echoing the architecture of Breguet’s original Souscription watches. Bridges are sculpted and chamfered with meticulous care, their matte finish providing a subtle backdrop that lets the polished screws and jewels shine.
The La Tradition reference 7097 distinguishes itself with its retrograde seconds complication. A small blued steel hand on a semi-circular scale at the 10 o'clock position arcs gracefully for 60 seconds before instantly jumping back to zero. This intricate mechanism is a mesmerizing visual spectacle that combines technical complexity with a poetic sense of motion. It is a prime example of how Breguet elevates a simple function into a work of art.
The movement's entire gear train is laid out bare for all to see. Poetry in motion, really. The balance wheel and escapement wheel, positioned prominently at 4 o’clock, pulses with life, its oscillations a constant reminder of the watch’s beating heart.
Smack in the middle, partially hidden below the dial is the main (power) barrel.
To the left at the 7 o'clock position is the second wheel and the one in the middle at the six is is the fourth wheel. The third wheel is under the second wheel.
Every component is not just functional but ornamental. The exposed gears, levers, and springs are arranged with deliberate symmetry, creating a sense of mechanical harmony that’s rare even among haute horlogerie. It’s a layout that invites contemplation, rewarding the wearer with new discoveries at every glance.
The "coin-edge" fluting on the case of the Breguet La Tradition is a design element that dates back to Abraham-Louis Breguet's early work. It's not just a decorative detail but a hallmark of the brand's heritage. This fine, vertical grooving on the side of the case, or "reeding," adds a distinctive tactile and visual element, giving the watch a unique identity and linking it directly to the brand's 18th-century origins. For many collectors, the coin-edge case is a subtle yet powerful symbol of Breguet's legacy and its dedication to classic horological aesthetics.
Flip the watch over, and you're greeted by a sapphire crystal caseback that reveals the movement in all its glory. The most striking feature is the rotor - crafted in the shape of a traditional anchor. This isn’t just aesthetic flair; it’s a symbolic nod to Breguet’s maritime connections and the brand’s historical commitment to precision and navigation.
Engraved with the Breguet name, the rotor glides with a smooth, deliberate motion — its mass perfectly balanced to optimize winding efficiency while maintaining visual harmony. It’s a subtle but powerful reminder that every detail in the La Tradition 7097 is considered, refined, and rooted in legacy.
While brands with aggressive marketing campaigns dominate the limelight, Breguet remains somewhat underappreciated - but not for too long I suspect. Yet for the true collector, this creates an opportunity. A La Tradition is not just a watch; it is a piece of living horological history, one that rewards those who value heritage, substance, legacy, and craftsmanship above social trends.
No comments:
Post a Comment