The Chopard Beekeeper Timepiece - Qualite Fleurier

L.U.C - Louis-Ulysse Chopard is the range for the high end in-house developed range of watches from Chopard. So called L.U.C. as it makes reference to the founder of their brand and all L.U.C. watches comes with an in-house calibre finished to the highest standard one can expect from the brand. In the earlier years, Chopard released some affordable classic timepieces and I was lucky enough to acquire one - the L.U.C. QUALITÉ FLEURIER.

This is the first edition of the Chopard L.U.C Qualite Fleurier that was launched to commemorate the launch of the "Qualite Fleurier" certification. The QF certification combines both COSC accuracy with movement finishing to the standards of Geneva seal certification. Not only is the movement tested, the finishing is assessed, movement encased and tested again. COSC only tests the movement but not when it is encased.

The Chronometer certified timepiece meets the Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF) standards which does not only meet the COSC standard for watch movements but also that of the Geneva seal in decoration. The FQF was founded by three brands Bovet, Chopard and Parmigiani, all three brands being based in Fleurier.

This automatic timepiece comes with solid rose gold case back featuring the Chopard family’s roots as beekeepers. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide, this series is long sold out.

You can see from the details that the timepiece is well finished. Hands and markers are nicely bevelled.

The case is rose gold with a diameter of 39.5mm - classic dress watch size. The finishing on the watch is exquisite for a watch at this price level. The two-toned dial is elegant and exudes that retro vibe. And the case back… well that is another wonderful revelation.

Beating inside is the automatic Caliber 9.96 with a micro rotor. I believe one of the feature of the FQF standard is the need to test the watch after it is encased. Additionally, the unseen parts of the watches must also be finished to the highest standards. I was once informed by a Chopard executive that all parts of the movement including the undersides that remain hidden from view are decorated.

The first edition of this Limited Edition timepiece came with a closed case back. Limited to 250 pieces, the case back is engraved. This is where it gets even more interesting. The Qualite Fleurier standard is clearly engraved at the bottom of the case back just below the Limited Edition numbering. Later versions came with an exhibition case back.

Then comes the entire logo. The early Chopard family were bee keepers hence the logo. The case back are hand engraved and the bees around the bee hives are individually hand engraved. No two bee hives are alike - number of bees may range between 43 to 45 (I think) but even with the same number of bees, the positioning is not all identical.

The buckle is another beauty - normal buckles are stamped but this one is not.

Chopard and the L.U.C. range has come a long way - many firsts and several to-die-for timepieces like the Lunar One Perpetual and the L.U.C. Engine One Tourbillon. Look out for more of their timepieces that should be in everyone's collection.

Parmigiani Hebdomadaire - From the Ionica to Kalpa

I would love a trip to Manufacture Parmigiani just to see the amount of insane timepieces they have plus those they have restored over the years. It was said that Michel Parmigiani spent his earlier years restoring sophisticated and complicated timepieces and automata before starting the eponymous brand.

Based in Fleurier, brands Parmigiani together with Chopard and Bovet (and movement maker Vaucher) share a common certification body - the Qualite Fleurier (QF). They had established and founded the body to certify timepieces - accuracy as well as level of finishing. To have a timepiece that is certified QF is not only rare but also a guarantee of quality. But I digress...

Manufacture Parmigiani Fleurier began in 1996. One of the first development was the Ionica series with their in-house developed Calibre PF 110 movement. Made in precious metal, the Ionica remains one of the icons of the brand with their form shaped movement and coin stepped bezel.

The Kalpa range that replaces the Ionica is a much bigger proposition. While the Ionica is classic sized (34x45mm), the Kalpa XL as the name suggest, is larger at 37x45mm. One things about the Ionica is the stepped coin bezel which makes it look smaller. The Kalpa XL looks and wears big.

But both comes with the in-house Calibre PF 110 which boasts 8 days power reserve - hence the name Hebdomadaire. The words Hebdomadaire has their origins in Latin but in French, it refers to a weekly event. With a fully wound movement, the timepiece runs for 8 (not 7) days which means the owner only winds it once fully and it will last the week.

The two toned dial of this Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire displays all the requisite information - power reserve at the 12, the date and seconds at the 6. The dial is also nicely decorated with guilloche and highly polished applied numerals.

I am in awe of the total package the folks at Parmigiani Fluerier put together in the Kalpa XL - I'm just wondering how much of that timepiece is manufactered in-house and perhaps which parts are coming from 3rd party suppliers. But I would not be surprised if everything was made in-house.

Back when Parmigiani developed the Ionica with their in-house movement, it was not uncommon for high end watch brands the likes of Franck Muller to be using ETA based (round) movements in tonneau cases. But Parmigiani developed his own Calibre PF 110 manual winding movement with a whopping 8 days of power reserve.

The movement is a sight to behold - form shaped to fit the tonneau case shape and fully developed in-house. Many brands choose the easier way out by slapping on a round movement to a non-circular case but Parmigiani was not just another manufacture. The stainless steel case for my Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire came highly polished and as you can see, the words "Edition Acier" is found on the caseback.

Love the scallop patterns on the movement and of course the Geneva stripes. The movement finishing is very good.

I would say that the movement finishing quality-price-ratio is excellent. Nicely polished edges.

Calibre PF 110 clearly crafted on the movement.

Even the bracelet is excellent with their satin brush finishing. You can see that this is a well worn timepiece - I do wear it quite a bit.

For all the positives, my only gripe about the Kalpa XL is the lack of a hacking seconds for time setting. In my opinion, hacking seconds is always important for accurate time setting and all watches should have that feature. But all considered, the Kalpa XL (or the Ionica) is a compelling proposition. Unique in many ways and a great timepiece with the movement manufactured in-house.