Watches I Have Come Across - The Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe

Throughout my watch collecting journey, I have been blessed to have come across many timepieces and I intend to document them in this photo essay. These are timepieces I don't own but have been fortunate to be able to see, feel, touch and photograph them. This time, I feature The Parmigiani Fleurier Ovale Pantographe.

Had the pleasure of handling this Parmigiani Ovale Pantographe many years ago when it was first launched.

What's so special you might ask? Well, it has got to do with the telescopic hands that extends and contracts with the passage of time. Unique huh? Would not have been possible with a round case watch... think about it.

Mr. Parmigiani's watchmaking background is rich in restoration and it is one of his restoration that he came across this Pantographe. The original was a pocket watch but of course the newer version is made into a wristwatch.

What's also attractive is the milky white dial - almost enamel like but I guess it features some white lacquer. And the timepiece comes with a whopping 8 days power reserve (Hebdomadaire in French means weekly).

And powering this wonderful piece is the in-house PF110 calibre found in the Hebdomadaire series and a module that gives this watch it's unique feature.

Situated at the 12 o'clock is the power reserve indicator.

This example is encased in a rose gold case and I think it looks so lovely and with a quirky complication. What's there not to like about this timepiece!

Watch GTG - BurgerLabo Part 1

The unique thing about our watch gatherings is around some theme - everyone tries to come double wristed around some theme. In this GTG, the two themes were (1) non-round case timepiece and (2) timepieces below SGD5,000.

We had the gathering at BurgerLabo at Gillmann Barracks. The idea around a theme is to bring together timepieces with unique features and in many cases we get to see timepieces that are either extraordinary or never even knew existed.

First up, the timepieces that does not come with a round case - many interesting timepieces in this category. The most unexpected and interesting for me was The Rolex Prince Railway. This example belongs to the owner of BurgerLabo, Ken Loon and is a rather rare rose/white gold sample made around 1935 to 1938. Commonly known as the "Doctor Watch", this one is a pristine example.

Honestly, how many of you knew this particular watch existed... I can say I didn't until last night.

Next up is the Daniel Roth Papillon with a jumping hour complication.

What a classy piece!

Another less seen but not less popular is the Urwerk.

Featured here is the UR-110.

The orbiting satellite complication tells time is a unique fashion. Not only does it tell time differently, the UR-110 also features a Control Board that shows the small seconds, Day/Night indicator and also when an oil change is necessary.

And when you speak of non-round case, one of the most iconic is the Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso. Two variants were present that evening...

First, the Reverso Grande GMT. With 8 days of pwer reserve, the Grande GMT is a sight to behold. On the front (above), big date and the Day/Night indicator and on the reverse (below), the second time zone and the power reserve.

Then the Reverso Tribute to 1931 (below) - what a simple beauty!

One of my favourite non-round case timepiece has to be the Corum Golden Bridge.

The original Corum Golden Bridge was developed by Mr. Vincent Calabrese for Corum and the purest version is the handwound version.

The movement of the watch is in the form of a straight bridge, hence the name. And the view of the movement is unobstructed from the front, back and the sides. Time only, several variants have been developed since the inception.

Nope, that's not Cartier but the Girard Perregaux Richeville chronograph.

A not often seen and under-appreciated chronograph, the Tonneau shaped steel case houses an automatic chronograph movement.

Then there is the ultra-cool Bulova D-Cave Computron.

This version is a collaboration between gaming company D-Cave and Bulova and the time is displayed when the button is pushed.

Surprisingly, two Parmigiani Hebdomadaire Kalpa XL popped up in this gtg. First, the bracelet version...

Then the leather strap version of the same timepiece with a different coloured dial.

One lovely feature of the Kalpa XL is the movement - in-house and finished to a very high standard.

Last but not least, there is the Wempe Chronometerwerke.

The Chronometerwerke is a range of timepiece under the Wempe Glashütte range and in this case, the movement was designed by the folks at Nomos Glashütte specially for Wempe. Handwound and with an engraved balance cock, the Chronometerwerke is great value for money.

But wait, how can I forget one of the most famous and recognisable non-round case timepiece???

Not just any AP Royal Oak, but the Perpetual Calendar in ceramic.

Now that is another icon you cannot miss.

Drool worthy right?

Making a special appearance to our GTG was the Feynman One. Yet to be launched, we managed to get a first hand view of the three variants.

The green version is the limited edition according to YK. So if you are into jade green dial, be quick on launch date.

Personally, I prefer the blue dial version.

Doesn't it remind you of another timepiece?

I love the contrast on the dial.

Then there is the white dial version - simple and pure.

The Feynman One comes with a manual winding ETA movement. Featured here are the prototype versions of the Founder's Edition of the Feynman One. The launch of the Feynman One is slated to be on 1st October (Saturday) at 2200hrs (SG time +8GMT).

While I was all excited about photographing the timepieces, I have to apologise for not featuring the food this time around. We had three types of burgers - the Pure Japanese Wagyu Burger, the Blue Cod Fillet Burger and the Chicken Burger.

Feedback was that the burger and the sides were excellently done. Special mention goes to the Fried Brussels sprouts with fermented chili dressing which was a hit.

Based on the above list of non-round case timepieces, which one is your favourite? Would like to hear your thoughts and comments.

Parmigiani Hebdomadaire - From the Ionica to Kalpa

I would love a trip to Manufacture Parmigiani just to see the amount of insane timepieces they have plus those they have restored over the years. It was said that Michel Parmigiani spent his earlier years restoring sophisticated and complicated timepieces and automata before starting the eponymous brand.

Based in Fleurier, brands Parmigiani together with Chopard and Bovet (and movement maker Vaucher) share a common certification body - the Qualite Fleurier (QF). They had established and founded the body to certify timepieces - accuracy as well as level of finishing. To have a timepiece that is certified QF is not only rare but also a guarantee of quality. But I digress...

Manufacture Parmigiani Fleurier began in 1996. One of the first development was the Ionica series with their in-house developed Calibre PF 110 movement. Made in precious metal, the Ionica remains one of the icons of the brand with their form shaped movement and coin stepped bezel.

The Kalpa range that replaces the Ionica is a much bigger proposition. While the Ionica is classic sized (34x45mm), the Kalpa XL as the name suggest, is larger at 37x45mm. One things about the Ionica is the stepped coin bezel which makes it look smaller. The Kalpa XL looks and wears big.

But both comes with the in-house Calibre PF 110 which boasts 8 days power reserve - hence the name Hebdomadaire. The words Hebdomadaire has their origins in Latin but in French, it refers to a weekly event. With a fully wound movement, the timepiece runs for 8 (not 7) days which means the owner only winds it once fully and it will last the week.

The two toned dial of this Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire displays all the requisite information - power reserve at the 12, the date and seconds at the 6. The dial is also nicely decorated with guilloche and highly polished applied numerals.

I am in awe of the total package the folks at Parmigiani Fluerier put together in the Kalpa XL - I'm just wondering how much of that timepiece is manufactered in-house and perhaps which parts are coming from 3rd party suppliers. But I would not be surprised if everything was made in-house.

Back when Parmigiani developed the Ionica with their in-house movement, it was not uncommon for high end watch brands the likes of Franck Muller to be using ETA based (round) movements in tonneau cases. But Parmigiani developed his own Calibre PF 110 manual winding movement with a whopping 8 days of power reserve.

The movement is a sight to behold - form shaped to fit the tonneau case shape and fully developed in-house. Many brands choose the easier way out by slapping on a round movement to a non-circular case but Parmigiani was not just another manufacture. The stainless steel case for my Kalpa XL Hebdomadaire came highly polished and as you can see, the words "Edition Acier" is found on the caseback.

Love the scallop patterns on the movement and of course the Geneva stripes. The movement finishing is very good.

I would say that the movement finishing quality-price-ratio is excellent. Nicely polished edges.

Calibre PF 110 clearly crafted on the movement.

Even the bracelet is excellent with their satin brush finishing. You can see that this is a well worn timepiece - I do wear it quite a bit.

For all the positives, my only gripe about the Kalpa XL is the lack of a hacking seconds for time setting. In my opinion, hacking seconds is always important for accurate time setting and all watches should have that feature. But all considered, the Kalpa XL (or the Ionica) is a compelling proposition. Unique in many ways and a great timepiece with the movement manufactured in-house.