The Chopard Beekeeper Timepiece - Qualite Fleurier

L.U.C - Louis-Ulysse Chopard is the range for the high end in-house developed range of watches from Chopard. So called L.U.C. as it makes reference to the founder of their brand and all L.U.C. watches comes with an in-house calibre finished to the highest standard one can expect from the brand. In the earlier years, Chopard released some affordable classic timepieces and I was lucky enough to acquire one - the L.U.C. QUALITÉ FLEURIER.

This is the first edition of the Chopard L.U.C Qualite Fleurier that was launched to commemorate the launch of the "Qualite Fleurier" certification. The QF certification combines both COSC accuracy with movement finishing to the standards of Geneva seal certification. Not only is the movement tested, the finishing is assessed, movement encased and tested again. COSC only tests the movement but not when it is encased.

The Chronometer certified timepiece meets the Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF) standards which does not only meet the COSC standard for watch movements but also that of the Geneva seal in decoration. The FQF was founded by three brands Bovet, Chopard and Parmigiani, all three brands being based in Fleurier.

This automatic timepiece comes with solid rose gold case back featuring the Chopard family’s roots as beekeepers. Limited to 250 pieces worldwide, this series is long sold out.

You can see from the details that the timepiece is well finished. Hands and markers are nicely bevelled.

The case is rose gold with a diameter of 39.5mm - classic dress watch size. The finishing on the watch is exquisite for a watch at this price level. The two-toned dial is elegant and exudes that retro vibe. And the case back… well that is another wonderful revelation.

Beating inside is the automatic Caliber 9.96 with a micro rotor. I believe one of the feature of the FQF standard is the need to test the watch after it is encased. Additionally, the unseen parts of the watches must also be finished to the highest standards. I was once informed by a Chopard executive that all parts of the movement including the undersides that remain hidden from view are decorated.

The first edition of this Limited Edition timepiece came with a closed case back. Limited to 250 pieces, the case back is engraved. This is where it gets even more interesting. The Qualite Fleurier standard is clearly engraved at the bottom of the case back just below the Limited Edition numbering. Later versions came with an exhibition case back.

Then comes the entire logo. The early Chopard family were bee keepers hence the logo. The case back are hand engraved and the bees around the bee hives are individually hand engraved. No two bee hives are alike - number of bees may range between 43 to 45 (I think) but even with the same number of bees, the positioning is not all identical.

The buckle is another beauty - normal buckles are stamped but this one is not.

Chopard and the L.U.C. range has come a long way - many firsts and several to-die-for timepieces like the Lunar One Perpetual and the L.U.C. Engine One Tourbillon. Look out for more of their timepieces that should be in everyone's collection.

Kurono Grand Series - What's Your Favourite

The Kurono range has received much success as a microbrand but do not be fooled - they are anything but micro.

The "Grand" series of the Kuronos all come with an Urushi dial. The first to be released was the Grand Akane '茜' (red) in late 2020, followed by the Grand Hagane '鋼' (brown) in late 2021 and the latest Grand Mori '森' (green) was just released in May 2022 as an anniversary piece. Japanese lacquer comes from the sap of the urushi tree which has its origins from China. Over time, the Japanese created their own styles and designs to elevate Urushi lacquerware to an artform.

In fact, the decorative technique has many names (different styles) one of which is also called maki-e (蒔絵), an artform perfected by the Japanese artisans. In maki-e, gold or silver dust is sprinkled into the still wet lacquer to create a pattern - maki-e is found in the Tamenuri maki-e box from Kurono.

The urushi sap that comes from the urushi tree is tapped when an incision is made on the bark of the tree. The sap flows from the cut and is collected. In fact, the raw sap is poisonous when exposed to humans. But over the centuries, tappers have harvested and learnt to handle the raw lacquer safely. The raw sap goes through a process of dehydration and filtration to achieve a clear transparent liquid, ready to be applied as a coating.

With the Grand series, the dial is gold plated and motif printed onto it before the urushi is applied. In this case, I believe they use the urushi-nuri (漆塗) technique which means "lacquer coating." According to their website, several layers of urushi coating is applied before the dial is considered complete.

One of the characteristics of the urushi dial is its high reflective surface as can be seen from the photos below.

Application of the urushi is but the first step in a long process of coating and curing. After the application of the lacquer, each dial is cured for about one month. They are allowed to dry in very specific conditions - a temperature and humidity controlled environment is critical.

Once the urushi is dried, a whetstone is used to smoothen the dial and this is done by hand. Once smoothen, another layer of lacquer is added again by hand. This time, a piece of paper is dipped into the lacquer and slowly applied onto the dial and the resulting dial is allowed to dry for a week.

The final process is one of polishing to achieve the high reflective surface - a fine abrasive paste is dapped onto the dial and the artisan uses their hands and fingers to polish the dial to a high shine.

Three iterations later, we see three different timepieces - all with urushi dial but with different motif and numerals/markers. Even while you clearly examine the Grand Akane and Grand Mori, although they use similar Arabic numberals, they are slightly different. The numerals on the Grand Mori are slanted ever so lightly compared with the Grand Akane. And of course, the Grande Hagane is totally different altogether - adopting "Koji" style character similar to Chinese Han characters. For those who read and write Chinese, you will recognise characters 11 and 12.

For the Grand series, the case back is also different from the regular releases.

Above the case back of the Mori (regular)

Above the case back of all the Grand series

Urushi dials are definitely something special. But that's where the specialty ends - the timepiece still comes with the Miyota automatic movement Calibre 90S5, sapphire glass, 37mm 316L high polished steel case found in the "regular" Kuronos.

Of the three Urushi variants, which is your favourite? Grand Akane, Grand Hagane or Grand Mori?

True Chronometer - The Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer

What is the meaning of Chronometer? A quick search gave me this definition "an instrument for measuring time accurately". Not just measuring time but measuring time accurately. So, what about the Glashütte Original Senator Chronometer attracts me as a "true" Chronometer?

Much as I love this timepiece, not much is said about the Senator Chronometer which is why I consider this a totally underrated timepiece for all its complications.

The 42mm timepiece has a very clean layout of the dial, showcasing just enough information without being overly cluttered. Big date at 3 o'clock, small seconds at the 6 and the power reserve with a built in Day/Night Indicator at 12. The timepiece comes rated to 5 ATM for water resistance.

First the big date - this is something I value a lot. As our eyesight deteriorates, the big date comes as a welcome addition to any timepiece.

But this Chronometer does not have a quick date change via the crown. Instead, it is via a pusher on the case at the 4 o'clock.

Next the small seconds at the 6... One pull of the crown and the seconds hand returns to the 60 mark. Not many brands adopt this feature - as far as I know, only Lange & Sohne, Akrivia and Montblanc are the other few brands that offer this zero reset complications.

At the 12 is the power reserve plus the Day/Night indicator. Power reserve is about 40 hours which isn't much but good enough.

The dial is solid silver with matt finishing and engraved black Roman numeral.

A few key features of this timepiece makes it unique and relevant as a Chronometer. First and in my opinion the most important is the minute increment setting feature that works in tandem with the zero reset mechanism.

When one pulls the crown, the seconds hand resets to zero and the minute hand jumps to the next minute marker. If the seconds hand was at or before the 30 second mark, the minute hand goes back to the last minute marker. If the seconds hand past the 30 mark, then the minute hand advances to the next minute marker.

On the reverse is the manual winding Calibre 58 (above).

I don't know about you, but my gaze goes immediately to the hand engraved balance cock. What is also visible is the GO 58 on the plate, indicating the Calibre number of this timepiece.

The finishing on the three quarter plate is pedestrian - nothing to shout about but the hand engraved balance cock is another thing altogether. Together with the Swan-neck fine adjustment, the mechanism is a sight to behold.

Back to the topic at hand - Chronometry. If a watch is to be certified a Chronometer, the very least it should have a stop (hacking) seconds. This allows for the user to accurately set and measure the time. In the case of Swiss timepieces, Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres or COSC is the certifying body. For COSC, they certify the movement's accuracy and not when the watch is encased. Once the watch is encased and sold, it becomes the property of an individual who has no way to measure the watches accuracy other than owning your own witschi machine. Failing that, we use our mobile phone's (atomic) timer to check the accuracy after one day. And in order to do that, a stop (hacking) seconds makes it so much easier.

And when the good folks at Glashütte Original decided to incorporate not only the stop seconds, they went further and developed the zero reset and the minute detent (minute by minute increment) for the Calibre 58. I know I dislike having to wait till the seconds hand hits 60 before pulling the crown to set the time. But with zero reset, one issue is removed. Then there is the issue of adjusting the minute to the next marker only for it to move when you depress the crown. And again, GO has outdone themselves when they developed the minute detent system where the minute hand ticks to the next marker when one is adjusting the time. And when you depress the crown, the minute hand does not jump out of place.

Those who know me know my peeve is the alignment of the minute hands after resetting. What makes me sad is many timepieces do not even have proper mechanism to lock the minute hand and when you depress the crown to start the timepiece, the minute hand moves. All said, I believe Glashütte Original has outdone the industry with this development. I wish more brands will do the same.

Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe Monopusher

Back in 2008 when I was first introduced to the Minerva-Montblanc collaboration at the Montblanc Boutique in Paragon, it was love at first sight. The Minerva movements in the Montblanc Villeret 1858 collection are definitely watchmaking at its best. From simple three handed timepieces to more complex chronographs, there is nothing not to like about the collection.

Fast forward to 2015, I came across a Montblanc Villeret 1858 Vintage Pulsographe (officially, that is what it is called) listed on a website and as fate would have it, managed to snag it. Why is it called the Pulsographe? Well, there is the pulsometer scale on the dial that allows the user to measure the pulse rates. Aimed at the medical profession, the pulsographe is designed to have one pusher for easy actuation - start, stop and reset all on one pusher. See (below) the monopusher at the 2 o'clock position.

This pulsometer scale is calibrated to 30 beats which means the user will count 30 beats of the pulse and stop the chronograph and where the red hand stops will indicate the heart rate per minute.

See the pulsometer scale below...

When I first received the Monopusher Chronograph, what really stood out was the contrast of the rose gold case and the black enamel dial. The black enamel dial immediately hits you with that high gloss (almost) flawless reflection. Black enamel dial as I understand it more difficult to make than white enamel dials but with the white Breguet numerals and red minute numerals, the contrast was rather striking. Lovely!

The 39mm rose gold case is polished to a high finish. If I recall correctly, each Montblanc 1858 Villeret timepiece is assembled by one watchmaker from start to end. And other than the case and strap, everything else is made in-house. Impressive!

And for the Grand Feu Enamel, as the name suggests, the enamel is fired in extremely high temperature - in excess of 800ºC. Layer by layer, the enamel is applied, allowed to cool, checked for consistency before the next round of firing. A friend once told me the beauty of an enamel dial is in the "imperfection"... no enamel dial is perfect - there will always be some imperfections. Therein lies the beauty as no two dials will be alike - visually to the naked eye perhaps, but on closer examination, eagle-eyed professionals will be able to tell. And that reflection on the dial is unmistakably grand feu enamel.

Details - the white Breguet numerals and bent chronograph hands add a special touch to the timepiece. The Breguet hands lends a vintage touch to the whole package.

The beauty in front is equally matched by the beauty at the back in the form of the Minerva Calibre 13-21 movement. A derivative of the vintage 13-20 (13 lignes and developed in 1920) movement, the reissue of the 13-20 was named the Calibre 13-21.

The upgrade is also focused on the fine finishing on these movements. Nicely polished edges and a well constructed movement.

One cannot lose focus on the Column wheel in this chronograph (see above). And the signature of any Minerva Chronograph is the Devil's tail (see below).

Look at the level of finishing on the movement... amazing!

In every Montblanc 1858 Villeret timepiece with a Minerva movement, the Calibre is engraved onto the movement plate. Seen here is the Minerva logo (arrow head) and the Calibre 13-21 inscribed onto the movement.

Montblanc uses the Minerva calibres in their haute-horology timepieces and the production numbers are low on these pieces. It is rather unusual to see a co-branded timepiece. But what Montblanc is doing with Minerva is exceptional. From "simple" three handed timepieces to Chronographs to Zero-Reset mechanism, Minerva certainly brings a lot into the relationship with Montblanc. And with the 1858 series, Montblanc used it to differentiate their offerings - 1 piece in Platinum, 8 pieces in white gold and 58 pieces in rose gold.