The Grand Seiko range is perhaps the most under-rated mechanical watch. Whether it is mechanical or the Spring Drive, the Grand Seiko represents the best in Japanese watchmaking.
I was first introduced to the Grand Seiko way back in 2006 when a friend showed me the SBGM003 GMT. Fell in love with the watch, simple, yet elegant and functional. An understated functional watch that non-collectors will probably not have heard of.
So when one came up for sale in Singapore, I had to do a favor and introduce it to my friend. And he is a happy man now. Only thing is that he has the SBGM021 while I have the closed case back SBGM003. The watch comes in a nice presentation box with the certificate right on top.
The certificate clearly specifies the details of the watch.
Underneath the Certificate Binder is a nice velvety box.
And when you open the box, it reveals the watch! A simple beauty made to the strictest standards of the Seiko watch manufactory.
So I took out my SBGM003 and took a picture of the watch - side by side. From the dial side, one cannot tell the difference.
But when you turn it back, the difference is revealed. The SBGM003 is the first model with a solid case back - with the GS Lion crown clearly on the case. The SBGM021 is the follow up after SBGM003 was discontinued and has the open case back.
The SBGM021 which has the exhibition case back comes with the in-house movement 9S66 and the words Grand Seiko is printed on the inside of the sapphire glass back. Grand Seiko uses only their in-house developed movements and one of the few "true" manufactures left. They even grow their own quartz crystals for their Spring Drive and Quartz range.
The SBGM003 on the other hand houses the 9S56 movement and comes with the solid case back. Some say the SBGM003 is now sought after since being discontinued as it features the GS Lion Logo on the case back.
Because of the exhibition case back. the finishing on the SBGM021 is better than the SBMG003 - in the SBGM021, the baseplate has perlage while the older model is not. The newer 021 has a longer power reserve - 72 hours versus 55 hours in the 003. But like I said, one can't really tell the difference from the front.
The level of finishing on the Grand Seiko is second to none in that price point. For that matter, it is finished far better than many Swiss brands who charge significantly higher prices for generic ETA movements. As for the cream colored dial many have mistaken it for a lacquered dial.
The seconds hand is well rounded and the blued GMT hands are beautifully done. The movement is tested to the strictest standards - more stringent than the COSC. The watch comes with a burgundy color leather strap with folding clasp.
Whenever I travel, I usually wear the GS as I find it functional yet does not attract too much attention, unlike my Rolex GMT II which is easily recognizable. Here is a shot of my GS with my food on one of the flights.
Next, I shall hunt for a Spring Drive - hope to find one at a reasonable price.
What a beautiful piece :
ReplyDeleteThanks Ed. It really is a lovely piece.
DeleteVery nice photos and review! I have sbgm003 too and am still enjoying it.
ReplyDeleteVery nice review!
ReplyDeleteI have sbgm003 too and am still enjoying it.
Thanks Tanaka-san. I continue to enjoy the Grand Seiko range too. I just feel that they are under-appreciated. But those who own one knows the value of the timepiece.
DeleteI just saw your article and I'm glad I did as I cannot tell the difference between the 003,021 and 221. Thanks for this.
ReplyDeleteAs I started to dream about my GS it was the 221 as the recent member of this GMT line. One day I realized "differents" between 221 from 221...which was actually the logos on the dial. Ended up to realize the different models as 003, 021, 2210 and then the whole family. The 003 with the full steel back with the Lion just kicked the sapphire glassed 221 out from my heart.
ReplyDeleteIn my eyes it's like the modern design of the gold cap backed watches. The lion is there not only visible but can touch it, feel it.
The very great joy of me was to catch one from Japan in full set with ALL the papers and an extra paper attached to it: a fresh service carried out by the GS lab. My dream become true.