IWC Flieger Doppelchronograph Ref 3713

IWC Pilot is as much an icon as the Portuguese for the brand but the Reference 3713 Doppelchronograph is a true winner. Of late, I have been revisiting older IWC creations - they speak to me. And like I have said many times before, they don't make it like they used to.

Made between 1996 through to 2005, the version I have here is probably an early year model with a Tritium dial and this comes with an original IWC bracelet too. A little more about Tritium dial later on.

Don't be confused with the "normal" Chronograph (see below). Missing the one pusher at the 10 o'clock but still a looker. This one below is called the Fliegerchronograph reference 3706.

The Dopplechronograph, otherwise known as the chronograph rattrapante is also known as the double chronograph. Not only does it measure an event, the Doppelchronograph measures two elapsed events. Accoridng to several sources, the base movement is the reliable ETA 7750 and the module that operates the rattrapante was designed by Richard Habring.

As you can see above, the chronograph hands are stacked one on top of the other - to measure the split seconds. What does rattrapante mean? Well, rattrapante roughly translates from French to mean “catch up”.

What does the Split Second (rattrapante) do? Well, when the user depresseses the chrono actuator at the 2 o'clock position, both hands moves in tandem. Depressing the pusher at 2 o'clock again stops the chronograph function and when we push the actuator at 4 o'clock, the hands reset to the original (60) position.

Where the magic happens is when we push the button at the 10 o'clock position while the chronograph is still operating. Let's assume there are two runners racing on a track, Runner A and Runner B. Going back to the start - we push the actuator at 2 o'clock to start the chronograph function when both runners start their run. Let's say that Runner A crosses the finish line first, we depress the button at 10 o'clock to stop the timing for the first runner. When we depress the actuator at the 10, one hand stops (timing the first person to cross the line) and another continues to operate thereby recording Runner B until Runner B completes his run. At that point, pushing the actuator again at 2 o'clock stops the second chronograph hand and there, you get to measure 2 events separately.

And you can imagine that any chronograph with such a complication does not come cheap. Not many manufacturers make the double split chronograph. Since leaving IWC, Richard Habring has started his own line of timepieces which includes the Felix Doppelchronograph that has the split second function.

The movement IWC reference for the 3713 is the 29 jewels, Caliber 79230 beating at 3 hertz (21,600 vph). This is the second version of the split second chronograph, the first being Reference 3711. Both uses the base ETA 7750 movement. Power reserve for this movement is about 44 hours. The display of the Doppelchronograph comes with Day and Date at the 3 o'clock position (see above).

Located at the 6 o'clock position are the words T SWISS MADE T - with the T denoting the dial was treated with Tritium (see above). Before Superluminova was used as an agent to provide luminosity, Radium and Tritium were used. Not only were they radioactive (although not harmful to users), their luminosity strength decreases with age, patina setting in eventually giving it a dark beige colour with little to no lume.

Not only are the hands treated with Tritium, the quarter markers are also treated with Tritium. As you can see from the watch dial, the markers have already started to patina - all turning beige. While I am not that worried about the luminosity of the hands and markers, I do kind of like the vintage look and feel of the patina.

In the world of Double Splits, a few brands are normally associated with that - A. Lange & Sohn, Patek Philippe, Habring just to name a few. The good folks at Lange has gone one further creating the first Triple Split. Talk about over engineering! What a feat though.

One parting question I have for all of you - how often do you use your chronograph function? Really...

Honeycomb, Honeygold! Vitreum Champlevé Enamel Dial

When they first launched, most of us have not heard of Vitreum Watches. But what intrigued me was their limited production of an enamel dial with Honeycomb motif.

Based in Randers, Denmark and founded by Kasper Reisner the folks at Vitreum launched in limited quantities two versions of the Champlevé enamelled dial - the Starry Night and Honeycomb. Was it Starry Night or Honeycomb? Tough choices but I settled for the Honeycomb.

The hand wound FH01 launched the brand. The enamel dials are made in Wales but the timepiece assembly is done in Denmark.

These mechanical timepieces come with a Grand Feu Enamel dial and for the Honeycomb, uses the Champlevé technique. What that means is that the cells in the Champlevé dial are first shaped in a solid piece of silver, after which each cell is engraved by hand creating the miniature sunbust pattern. Then honey-coloured vitreous enamel (raw enamel) is carefully filled into the recess (in this case the honeycomb) and then fired at 850°C to achieve the grand feu enamel dial.

As with any hand crafted products, no two are alike. Similar but never the same. With hand crafted enamel work each layering, firing, polishing will bring different results. Even between cells of the honeycomb, you can see differences guaranteeing that its hand crafted and not commercially done - not sure if you can actually do commercial enamel dials like these.

And with hand made enamel dials, there are bound to be imperfections. Because they are hand made, no two dials are alike as each dial will have a different colour configuration. When one buys the Vitreum Honeycomb, they will get a unique piece.

The FH01 is released in a a limited quantity of 5 per variant. As I understand it, this might not be the only Honeycomb Vitreum might do. Seems like there will be future releases too. In what form and shape, I don't know.

The overall package is a compelling one. Even the hands are pretty well made too...

My only gripe is the case back... closed case back. I wish they had an exhibition case back also showing off the movement. Beating inside is a hand wound Sellita SW210 movement.

And a nifty detail... there is a recess in the case. Pulling out the crown is that much easier.

The timepiece also comes with a signed buckle...

The watch also comes with a strap with quick change mechanism. For a strap change clutz like me, this is a nice detail.

The 39.5mm steel case comes with a combination of satin and polished finishing. The size is perfect for someone like me with a smallish wrist size.

Many challenges along the way, but the folks at Vitreum have come through with a very unique product. Congratulations to Kasper and the Vitreum team. Can't wait to see what's next in the line up.

JLC Duomètre a Quantième Lunaire - A Technical Feat

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire is one of those timepieces that is not only techically impressive but has the beauty to match too.

Since the launching of the Duomètre range, I've always admired the technical feat as well as the concept of separating isochronism from other functions like time and date display and even chronograph measurement. I'll come to that later...

In 2014, the manufacture in Le Sentier went one further and introduced the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire with a Grand Feu Enamel dial. Limited to 200 pieces, the dial side is as beautiful as the movement.

The dial layout is simple yet breathtaking.

At the 9 o'clock (above) is the moonphase and date display. I would have thought that the blue hands were heat oxidized but they are painted. Still, they give a nice contrast to the milky white dial.

Adjacent at the 3 o'clock position (pictured above) is the time display. At certain angles, the hour and minute hands has a golden hue but at certain angles, grey. And right at the 6 o'clock (pictured below) is the display for the 1/6th second display - also known as Foudroyante.

The jumping seconds ensures the chronometry and one of the feature of this Duomètre is when you pull the crown. When you pull the crown at the first position, the Foudroyante hands returns to the zero mark and the seconds hand stops just like with the hacking seconds of a normal watch. But wait! When you pull the crown again to the second position, the seconds hand resets to zero too. Much is said about time setting accuracy and the Grand Maison has done a wonderful job of including the double zero resets in the Duomètre.

Now for the technical wonder in Calibre 381. The Calibre 381 is beautifully laid out and is made from German silver. German silver, also known as maillechort, is not actually silver and its composition of Zinc, Nickel and Copper gives it the slight golden hue. Movements made from German silver are said to be anti-magnetic and anti-corrosion making it a good material for movements. But it is also said that German silver is really hard to work with.

Duomètre comes with the "Dual Wing" power system. What this means is that the double barrel Duomètre has one barrel supplying power to the balance (right barrel in the picture above - regulateur) and one barrel supply power for the other functions like time and date display and in this case, the moonphase. Each barrel provides an impressive 50 hours power reserve.

Not only is Calibre 381 a magnificent movement, the finishing is also top notch. It stands up to close scrutiny. The anglage is beautifully done and the blued screws gives the movement a nice contrast.

The sunray decoration on the movement bridges are radiating from (or towards) the balance.

One of the key feature of the Dual Wing concept is the separation of the isochronism from the other functions. When we pull the crown to set the time, the escapement continues to oscillate which ensures that the amplitude is not lost during time setting. The balance beats at 21,600 vph.

And what about winding the timepiece? There are two power reserve indicators beside the Foudroyante sub-dial. The + indicates the power is at its max and when the power reserve runs down to zero, it will be at the - mark. One gives the power indication of the regulating organ (between 7 and 8 o'clock) while the other shows the power left on the other barrel for time/date and moonphase indication. Winding the clockwise direction powers up the escapement barrel while turning the crown anti-clockwise winds the functions barrel.

The Duomètre has always represented one of the best the Grand Maison has to offer. And now, they have released the new Doumètre Spherotourbillon... to die for really. But I am happy with what I have - the Duomètre a Quantième Lunaire with a Grand Feu Enamel dial.