JLC Duomètre a Quantième Lunaire - A Technical Feat

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire is one of those timepieces that is not only techically impressive but has the beauty to match too.

Since the launching of the Duomètre range, I've always admired the technical feat as well as the concept of separating isochronism from other functions like time and date display and even chronograph measurement. I'll come to that later...

In 2014, the manufacture in Le Sentier went one further and introduced the Duomètre à Quantième Lunaire with a Grand Feu Enamel dial. Limited to 200 pieces, the dial side is as beautiful as the movement.

The dial layout is simple yet breathtaking.

At the 9 o'clock (above) is the moonphase and date display. I would have thought that the blue hands were heat oxidized but they are painted. Still, they give a nice contrast to the milky white dial.

Adjacent at the 3 o'clock position (pictured above) is the time display. At certain angles, the hour and minute hands has a golden hue but at certain angles, grey. And right at the 6 o'clock (pictured below) is the display for the 1/6th second display - also known as Foudroyante.

The jumping seconds ensures the chronometry and one of the feature of this Duomètre is when you pull the crown. When you pull the crown at the first position, the Foudroyante hands returns to the zero mark and the seconds hand stops just like with the hacking seconds of a normal watch. But wait! When you pull the crown again to the second position, the seconds hand resets to zero too. Much is said about time setting accuracy and the Grand Maison has done a wonderful job of including the double zero resets in the Duomètre.

Now for the technical wonder in Calibre 381. The Calibre 381 is beautifully laid out and is made from German silver. German silver, also known as maillechort, is not actually silver and its composition of Zinc, Nickel and Copper gives it the slight golden hue. Movements made from German silver are said to be anti-magnetic and anti-corrosion making it a good material for movements. But it is also said that German silver is really hard to work with.

Duomètre comes with the "Dual Wing" power system. What this means is that the double barrel Duomètre has one barrel supplying power to the balance (right barrel in the picture above - regulateur) and one barrel supply power for the other functions like time and date display and in this case, the moonphase. Each barrel provides an impressive 50 hours power reserve.

Not only is Calibre 381 a magnificent movement, the finishing is also top notch. It stands up to close scrutiny. The anglage is beautifully done and the blued screws gives the movement a nice contrast.

The sunray decoration on the movement bridges are radiating from (or towards) the balance.

One of the key feature of the Dual Wing concept is the separation of the isochronism from the other functions. When we pull the crown to set the time, the escapement continues to oscillate which ensures that the amplitude is not lost during time setting. The balance beats at 21,600 vph.

And what about winding the timepiece? There are two power reserve indicators beside the Foudroyante sub-dial. The + indicates the power is at its max and when the power reserve runs down to zero, it will be at the - mark. One gives the power indication of the regulating organ (between 7 and 8 o'clock) while the other shows the power left on the other barrel for time/date and moonphase indication. Winding the clockwise direction powers up the escapement barrel while turning the crown anti-clockwise winds the functions barrel.

The Duomètre has always represented one of the best the Grand Maison has to offer. And now, they have released the new Doumètre Spherotourbillon... to die for really. But I am happy with what I have - the Duomètre a Quantième Lunaire with a Grand Feu Enamel dial.

JLC Hybris Mechanica Exhibition - Ion Singapore

JLC held the Hybris Mechanica Exhibition on October 10th 2013 at the Ion Sky in celebration of their 180th Anniversary. On show were a range of JLC watches from the Gyrotourbillon 3 to the Tourbillon Cylindrique A Quantieme Perpetuel and the Duometre Spherotourbillon.

In recent years, JLC has been making waves again. The Manufacture with more than 1,000 in-house calibres to their name is moving full steam ahead with many new timepieces. The Duometre range is an exciting development and in this year's release, several new watches including the Duometre Spherotourbillon.

The Spherotourbillon uses the cylindrical balance wheel and the tourbillon is a multi-axis tourbillon.

The manual winding Calibre 382 has 2 main springs and has a power reserve of 50 hours. Definitely a watch on my "Dream Watch" list if money were not an object.

Next the Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie, another watch from the Duometre range. Sings the Westminster Chime. Probably one of the most complicated wristwatch to be made.

On top of being a Grande Sonnerie, the watch is also a perpetual calendar with jumping hour indicator.

The chiming mechanism consists of four ‘Trébuchet Hammer’ that strikes harder than traditional strikers. On the left side of the watch is the retrograde date display.

A closer look at the striking mechanism.

And on the reverse, there is the double barrel and the flying tourbillon. As beautiful front and back.

Another view of the twin barrel and the finishing on the back of the watches.

Here is the link to the other post I wrote about JLC. I must say that with the Duometre line that JLC has shown real promise - much more to the brand that I had admired when I first started watch appreciation. Finishing was not very much a strength of JLC but with their latest development, I can say they are on the up. Great job JLC!

Jaeger-LeCoultre 180th Anniversary

The year 2013 marks the 180th Anniversary for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre, the Grande Maison has developed a Jubilee Collection to mark the occasion.

Amongst some of the new development unveiled in 2013 are the Master Grande Tradition Gyrotourbillon 3 Jubilee and the Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique A Quantieme Perpetuel Jubilee. First, the Gyro 3.

As with the Gyro 2, the Gyro 3 comes fitted with a spherical balance-spring in the flying tourbillon. Additionally, the Gyro 3 comes with a monopusher chronograph with an instantaneous digital display. Only in platinum, the watch comes as a limited edition of 75 pieces.

The Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Cylindrique A Quantieme Perpetuel Jubilee is no less impressive. When I first saw the watch, I thought it was one of those "tell-me-what-you-wish-in-a-watch" type. Didn't think JLC could squeeze so many features into a wristwatch. Kudos JLC!

The flying tourbillon comes with a cylindrical balance spring that on top of looking great while it spins also drives accuracy. The watch is in platinum and comes with an automatic calibre 985 and is limited to 180 pieces.

The watch also comes with a perpetual calendar with a four digit year indication. The automatic watch also comes with a silver-grained dial.

At the rear of the self winding perpetual calendar is an 18K pink gold rotor which reveals a representation of the gold medal brought back by Jaeger-LeCoultre from the Universal Exhibition of Paris in 1889.

Earlier on in the year when we attended the SIHH 2013 collection event, I was really taken by the Master Ultra Thin Perpetual. The dial is clean and very legible and comes with a four digit year indication. I particularly like the rose gold version with the beige dial. Will find time to photo that watch when it becomes available.

Feature of the Month - JLC Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Bleu

Jaeger LeCoultre is famous for their Atmos but equally iconic is the Reverso range of watches. This year, JLC will be celebrating their 180th Anniversary and that is why they are the Feature of the Month.

When one thinks of a rectangular face watch, the Reverso comes to mind. Invented in the 1930s for polo players to protect their watches during the game, the swivel case Reverso has blossomed into many a complications including my favorite the Gyrotourbillon 2. My dream watch but alas, the watch is priced beyond my budget. So I have a more modest Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Bleu 1931 ref 378858J. Why Ultra Thin? Because it is only 9.1mm tall.

The Duoface was first created in 1994 and features two time zone. It is probably one of the easiest two time zone watch to set - how more difficult than to just press a button. And with a day and night indicator, it makes it a lot easier to get it right.

The watch comes encased in steel and the front dial is blue lacquered with rhodium plated hour markers. The rich blue lacquer dial was love at first sight. Reminiscent of the Art Deco style, the dial is clean, symmetrical and visually pleasing.

The back dial where the home time shows is white with the Clous de Paris guilloché. I must say that the guilloché is well done. The watch face with the overlapping Day/Night indicator provides a nice symmetry to the watch.

The watch comes with two straps - alligator and calf skin strap with a tang buckle. Pictured here with the alligator strap.

The calf skin strap comes from the famed Argentinian workshop of Casa Fagliano who is one of the top polo boot maker in the world. Somehow, I still prefer the alligator strap.

Even the case back is well decorated - perlage. The "Special Edition" watch has a power reserve of 45 hours. This is a Boutique only piece.

The watch has been tested for 1,000 hours as with all JLC watches. In the 1,000 hours Control test, the entire watch (not just the movement) is subjected to tests approximating normal wear and the standards are said to be much stricter than the COSC as imposed by the Bureaux du Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres. And the wrist shot…

I still say to many a friends looking to start a mechanical watch journey that JLC still represents great value for a in-house manufactured movement. Now with the 1,000 Hours Control testing, you possess a great timepiece that assures you of the quality that says Swiss Made.

The JLC Reverso Boutique Edition - Full Report Coming Soon

The JLC Grande Reverso Ultra Thin Duoface Bleu. A classic beauty, front and back.

This is a Boutique Edition and the first piece has come to our shores. More of this report coming up!

Stay tuned for a more complete report coming up real soon.

The JLC Atmos - Perpetual Mechanical Clock

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos is truly a perpetual clock that requires no winding or any other power source other than the change in temperature or more accurately, atmospheric variations. I was truly intrigue by this technology that I bought one for myself.

The Atmos was first introduced by Jean-Leon Reutter in 1928. Called the Atmos 0, is was encased in a bell jar and air tight sealed. However, the Atmos did not take off until JLC took interest and worked with Reutter to modify the mechanism. The first JLC Atmos was shipped out in 1933 and like they say, the rest is history.

This is a simple Atmos with no complications. But the mechanisms look wonderful especially on closer inspection. From what I understand, a single day of variation can power the clock for up to 30 days.

Measuring 19.5 x 17 x 22.5cm (L x W x H), this Atmos requires very little adjustment. The accuracy of this clock is remarkable - I only need to adjust every two to three months. Some remarkable information - the balance wheel of the Atmos oscillates twice per minute and consumes 100 times energy than a wristwatch. Plus, no lubrication is needed for this Atmos and the slow moving parts in seems has very little wear and tear. I just wish wristwatches were like that too.

Another close up shot of the mechanism.

And another look at the Atmos clock. Sits proudly in my living room right beside the Baguette Clock. One day, I look forward to owning another (complication) Atmos.

Many thanks to my friend Prof Harry Tan for lending his expertise in producing these wonderful pictures.

Jaeger LeCoultre 8 Days Baguette Clock - My Favourite Clock

The Jaeger-LeCoultre is one of the few Manufactures who has a wide range of clocks on top of their extensive range of watches. And they all use in-house movements. What intrigued me are the Baguette 8 Days clocks and the Atmos.

The Baguette 8 Days Clock houses the Calibre 210, sixteen (16) jewels. I believe it was developed after the 1930s. Comes in several shapes and designs but I was lucky enough to find this specimen in the US.

Measuring 7 x 3.5 x 11cm (L x W x H), this specimen winds from the back and looks suspended from afar. I have seen larger round shaped types which are easily 20cm across.

This particular clock is in very good condition as evident in the movement. The sapphire glass is bevelled, hence the reflection.

There are some that are signed as LeCoultre but this one I have is signed Jaeger LeCoultre. Some are decorated but I like mine just simple and totally see through. I had once asked former JLC CEO Jerome Lambert if they would consider remaking these clocks and the answer was a firm NO.

And another look at the see through clock.

Sits proudly in my living room right beside the Atmos - more on the Atmos in another post.