Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto

Our apartment in Kyoto is around the Kiyomizu area and the day we arrived, it was already in the afternoon. Our hosts were nice enough to direct us to the Kiyomizu-dera Temple. But only for a one week period, the temple was opened at night.

Most of the temples we visited are located high up in the hills overlooking the city of Kyoto and Kiyomizu-dera is no different. But we have arrived at night, rather later after dinner. So we did not make the whole round of the temple but just walking around the main entrance. But the architecture is beautiful. We managed to capture some nice shots of the buildings.

This is the main gate of the temple.

The reverse shot of the gate.

The wooden architecture is well restored and maintained.

Nice night shots - normally the temple closes by 5pm but this week while we were there is a special week where they open at night and with special lighting too.

Another reason why we did not make the whole round was the weather - night time temperature this time of the year tend to be around zero degrees Celsius and many of us are not prepared for these kinds of weather. So these are some of the shots we made of the Kiyomizu-dera temple area.

A magical evening at the temple indeed. A special sight only to the few who were lucky enough to be there to enjoy the view.

River Ride in Arashiyama

So we were to take the Sagano Scenic Train in Arashimaya to enjoy the view and then take ferry back to the start point which is at the Saga-Arashiyama Train Station. So that was the plan…

As with many plans, things don’t always turn out the way we thought it would. The train ride was a pleasant one - nice scenery on the Sagano Scenic Train heading from the Saga-Arashiyama train station to Kameoka terminal station after which we had walk for about 8 minutes to the Umahori JR Station to take the train to the Kameoka JR Station. And walked we did… fast just so we could make the 1pm “ferry” ride.

So when we arrived at the Kameoka JR Station, it was already around 1245pm which meant we only have less than 10 minutes to get to the ferry station. But a ferry it was not - some things get lost in translation from Japanese to English. It is actually a river rafting ride - not a slow ferry ride down the river. We were given numbers and we were told to wait till our group number was called. Number 38 was our group number. As with all things Japanese, they boarded us at 1pm.

Each river boat is manned by 4 oarsman and seats about 18 pax comfortably. And soon we were on our way - but not before they did some weight and balance to keep the boat on even keel. A slow start down the Hozu-gawa river.

The front of the boat is manned by three and the back, the navigator. It started out with the two younger oarsman as the navigators and the two elderly gentlemen the rowing party. I was somewhat surprised that the elder folks are the ones rowing and not the young men. But as soon as they started, you can understand why - they are still very fit.

The start was slow especially when we were in clam waters. But that is expected and we were treated to some nice forestry along the banks with some unusual rock formations too. I can imagine it would be a lot prettier during autumn with the different colour leaves. What would probably be more amazing would be when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom! But unfortunately for us, we are probably 10 days too early.

The boat is surprisingly stable even when we hit the rapids. A combination of good construction of the boat and the skills necessary to keep us dry and away from harm.

Half an hour into the one and a half hour ride, the oarsman switched roles - now it was the young men rowing and the elderly guys taking a break as the navigators.

The ride was enjoyable, soaking in the scenery along the river.

The train tracks for the scenic train ride.

I was amazed by how skilful these gentlemen are. I was seated on the right side of the boat and I could see that they never once struck a rock - not the boat and not the oars too! Amazing!

A lone boat taking a break along the river…

Towards the end of the ride came another surprise - a river boat 7-11! The boat moored beside us and allowed the oarsman some break while the mobile supermarket sold their goods - drinks, snacks and even grilled food.

By the way, the ride is not cheap. It costs JPY4,100 per person for the one and a half hour ride. At the end of the ride, the boat men made their way further down the river where a crane was standing by to bring the boat back upstream. The boatmen will make their own way back to the start point by train.

And right there at the landing was the first signs of spring… Sakura starting to bloom!

A very enjoyable ride but expensive to say the least.

Freshly Grilled Unagi - A Great Find in Kyoto

Up until now, I have not been to Japan for a holiday so when the timing was right, our family planned to visit Tokyo and Kyoto. When we visited the Fushimi-inari Shrine in Kyoto, we were pleasantly surprised when we saw a restaurant serving unagi - sea eel.

We were actually looking for a place for breakfast when we chanced upon this restaurant just outside the entrance to the shrine. As we walked towards the restaurant, there was no mistaking the smell of grilled unagi… what a smell! And lo and behold, I saw the chef grilling the eel over an open grill.

Firstly, we found our breakfast place and secondly, I found an authentic unagi restaurant! The restaurant has rules! Yes, rules! Firstly, they do not do take out…

Secondly, they do not encourage sharing of food…

I guess the fact that they are a small restaurant means they cannot afford to have a group come in and order one bowl to share. This is the restaurant - although there is a second level (we did not make it to the top).

So order one for each we did…

While the family was having their breakfast, I was busy finding out how they do it. The chef was behind his grill, preparing the eels to be skewered. First he has a bucket full of eels pre-cleaned.

There was a bucket of eel on the side and he would place three eels on the wooden block and with his deft hands measure and skewer the eels from head to tail.

The first skewers start from the head…

Completed skewers are placed into a plastic tray and I suppose to be stored in the refrigerator. But this was early March in Kyoto and the day time temperature was around 2-4 degrees celsius - natural fridge!

Then onto the grill it goes! Some other restaurants steam the unagi before grilling them to rid the eel of the fats. But this one was straight unto the grill.

You wait for the unagi to be grilled and the aroma is just wonderful!

We were there on two separate occasions and witnesses how they were grilling the eel. After having grilled it for awhile, the blanch the unagi with the sauce…

Then back onto the grill…

And soon enough, the unagi was ready…

And this was our reward for waiting! The unagi fresh from the grill! From head to tail.

My son Timothy remarked as he took the first bite - nothing like what we have in Singapore. This has quality written all over it! Soft but firm to the bite and the sauce is not overpowering. Not too sweet that it masks the unagi flesh but just right to compliment the eel. What a meal!

It was pure bliss - to say the least. Freshly grilled unagi - so it was really justified that we went there twice. Outside the restaurant, there was a globe where one can pin the country where they come from.

The freshly grilled unagi are displayed and sold as is - sauce and all. And it was brisk business too.

What I understand from my Japanese friend is that it is rather unusual to serve unagi with the head on - “high class” unagi restaurants typically remove the head before they serve the eel. But high class or not, this was one good unagi meal!

Another look at the restaurant.