As a watch collector, I believe that everyone should have a functional Habring² in their collection and I was always wanting one myself. The perfect time came in September 2024, when Shellman launched their 12th edition of the Watch Collector's Week.
Habring², the independent Austrian watchmaker, has carved a niche for itself with its commitment to minimalist aesthetics, and an unwavering focus on functional elegance.
The Oskar, a relatively new addition to their lineup, already impressed with its classical charm and the delightful combination of a pointer date and moon phase complication, powered by their robust A11Ups movement. But the Shellman Edition in Indigo takes this foundation and imbues it with a unique character that is both subtle and striking.
At first glance, the most immediate and profound difference lies in the dial color. While the standard Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase is available in a classic glossy white or a more contemporary blue galvanized dial, the Shellman Edition introduces a mesmerizing indigo hue. This isn't just any blue; it's a deep, rich indigo that shifts with the light, revealing subtle nuances that evoke the twilight sky. It's a color that speaks of sophistication and understated luxury, setting it apart from its siblings and giving it an almost poetic quality.
The choice of indigo is particularly poignant given Shellman's Japanese heritage. Indigo dyeing, or Aizome (藍染), boasts a rich and ancient history in Japan, dating back centuries.
From humble peasant clothing to the intricate textiles of the samurai, indigo was ubiquitous, prized not only for its striking beauty but also for its natural antibacterial and insect-repelling properties. The deep, varied shades of blue created through repeated dipping and oxidation became so iconic that, during the Meiji Restoration, Western visitors marvelling at the prevalence of blue across the nation coined the term "Japan Blue." This deep connection to a cultural cornerstone imbues the Shellman Edition's dial with a layer of meaning that transcends mere aesthetics, linking it directly to the heart of Japanese artistry and tradition.
Beyond the captivating color, the Shellman Edition often features specific details that further distinguish it.
Dial Finishing (above): Unlike the regular version, the dial in this Shellman edition is slightly different. The two step dial if finished differently with the periphery being finished with a circular sunburst pattern while the centre is matte finished. Due to the difference in finishing, this indigo dial has a depth of colour that gives it a different hue when you view from different angles.
Numeral and Hand Treatment: The application or finish of the Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands might be subtly altered to complement the indigo dial. This could involve different plating, a unique polishing, or even a specific lume application that harmonizes with the overall aesthetic.
Moon Phase Disc: While the Oskar's moon phase display is already a highlight, a limited edition might feature a slightly different depiction of the moon or stars on the disc, adding an exclusive touch for collectors.
These subtle yet impactful changes transform the watch from a general release into a more exclusive and collectible piece. The indigo dial, in particular, offers a sense of individuality that the more widely available white and blue versions, while beautiful in their own right, cannot quite match.
Regardless of the edition, the Habring² Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase remains a horological triumph. Its 38.5mm stainless steel case is perfectly proportioned for my smaller wrist, sitting elegantly on the wrist without being overly assertive. The 9mm height (or around 10.3mm with the domed sapphire crystal) is remarkably thin for a watch housing a moon phase and pointer date complication, a testament to Habring²'s masterful movement architecture.
To adjust the date or moon-phase, the pusher at the 4 o'clock position on the case allows one to adjust from there (see profile above picture). The first push advances the date while a deeper push advances both date and moon-phase simultaneously.
The A11Ups manual-winding movement is as one would expect of a Habring² - simple finishing on a funcational movement. Habring²'s commitment to in-house production and finishing is evident in the polished edges, decorative engravings, and perlage visible on the movement through the open caseback. With a 48-hour power reserve and beating at 28,800 vph (4Hz), it's a reliable and accurate workhorse.
The dial layout, with the moon phase and small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and the pointer date encircling the periphery, is remarkably balanced and legible. The vintage-inspired Breguet numerals lend a timeless appeal, while the highly polished leaf-shaped hands provide clear time indication against an indigo dial.
This particular Shellman Edition holds special significance as it marks the 12th anniversary of Shellman's Watch Collector Week. Shellman, the esteemed Tokyo-based independent watch retailer, has long been a pivotal force in the Japanese and global watch collecting scene.
Shellman's annual Watch Collector Week, often held at prestigious venues like Isetan Shinjuku, is a testament to their dedication to showcasing the finest in watchmaking. These events are not just sales opportunities but educational experiences, bringing together watchmakers, enthusiasts, and industry experts to share knowledge and foster a vibrant community.
This Habring² Indigo edition (alongside other releases), presented during the 12th year of Shellman's celebrated Watch Collector Week, not only highlights the enduring appeal of the Oskar but also solidifies the fruitful partnership between these two influential entities in the world of fine watches. For those seeking a watch that is both technically superb and visually captivating, this celestial dream in indigo, imbued with the spirit of a decade-long collaborative legacy and the rich heritage of "Japan Blue," is undoubtedly a piece to cherish.
