Edouard Koehn - Worldtimer Alarm & Chronograph

Throughout my watch collecting journey, I have come across some very interesting brands and timepieces and this time, I have had the pleasure of seeing in metal the Edouard Koehn World Heritage II and the Tempus II Chronograph.

Called the World Heritage II Universal Time & Alarm, this titanium case timepiece is for the avid traveller.

One glance and you can see the resemblence to the Vulcain Cricket worldtimer and this is no coincidence. The owner of the brand happens to be Mr. Bernard Fleury, former CEO of Vulcain. Having completed his education in a school of horology in Geneva, Edouard Koehn went on to join Patek Philippe. While at Patek Philippe, Koehn's expertise was in complications and his talent did not go unnoticed. So good he was that he quickly became not only an employee but was also made a shareholder in Patek. The Edouard Koehn brand was started in 1891 after Mr. Koehn left Patek Philippe to start his own brand.

Upon his death in 1908, Mr. Koehn's son took over until the 1930s but it wasn't until 2015 when Mr. Fleury acquired the brand and relaunched in 2020. Originally established in Geneva, the new Edouard Koehn headquarters is now in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

The chronograph was the first to be launched - the Tempus I. The tricompax chronograph comes in two versions - the no-date and the skeletonised date version. The bicompax Tempuss II comes without the date - have a look at their collection here.

Between the Tempus and World Heritage, I am more of a classical watch person, hence the preference for the World Heritage II. This limited edition timepiece features the ice-blue dial and every dial combination is limited to 88 pieces.

The timepiece offers a 24 time zones view (see below), day/night indicator ring plus the alarm feature.

What is nice is the clear layout - very legible and visible.

While there are similarities with the Cricket, a Vulcain it is not...

Firstly, the movement is a self-winding Calibre EK-MVTWTA01 unlike the manual winding calibre in the Cricket. Secondly, the older versions of the Cricket comes with a closed case back while the World Heritage II has an open caseback clearly showing off the mechanical prowess. The integrated alarm system was specially built for Edouard Koehn with the stiker hitting the case.

The automatic movement has a double barrel that provides 48 hours of power reserve and is entirely manufactured in La Chaux-de-Fonds.

The titanium case is 42mm in diameter and rated to 50 metres of water resistance. At SGD14,090 retail, this is a very tempting proposition for such a complication.

Next up is the Tempus II chronograph, a very masculine timepiece.

What's special about this chronograph? For one, the balance wheel escapement is exposed on the dial side between the 10 and 12 o'clock position - Open Heart style.

And the kicker for me is the fact that the minute hand for the chronograph counter at 3 o'clock features a jumping hand. Not many brands has such a feature.

What's more? This is also a monopusher chronograph to boot!

Rated to 100 metres water resistance, the 43mm diameter steel case comes with an integrated rubber strap.

The Open Heart monopusher chronpgraph encases the 245 components movement and has 48 hours of power reserve.

Edouard Koehn prides themselves as a brand with innovation - turning the escapement upside down to reveal it on the dial side. Gives the chronograph a different look.

Between the two, I'm all for the World Heritage II as my small wrist can take it better. But fret not, I understand Edouard Koehn is coming up with a more classical chronograph - a rattrapante with an enamel dial at that! Stay tuned for more interesting things to come from the brand. Thanks to Timmy for showing me these two pieces. To view the timepieces head down to Sincere Fine Watches - they are the authorised dealers for Edouard Koehn in Singapore and the region.

JLC Duometre Chronograph Moon - What a Combo!

Launched at the Watches & Wonders 2024, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duometre Chronograph Moon is watchmaking at its best.

But first, my two Duometre...

First, the Duometre a Chronographe (above)

And the Duometre a Quantieme Lunaire... And then there is the new Chronograph Moon (below)

The Platinum version...

And the Rose Gold version.

Fitted with the new Calibre 391, the Chronograph Moon is a combination of two previous iterations - the Duometre a Quantieme Lunaire and the Duometre a Chronographe, both of which I am featuring here.

I have always liked the Duometre range and as luck would have it, was able to acquire the Duometre a Quantieme Lunaire Limited Edition from the secondary market. This version comes with a white grand feu enamel dial.

Prominent in the Duometre range is the 1/6th second - also known as Foudroyante. Both worked differently in the Quantieme Lunaire and the Chronograph.

What's really interesting about the Duometre range is the movement.

Featuring two barrels, each barrel powers diffrent function - one the complication and the other powers the gear train for timekeeping.

Next up is the Duometre Chronograph...

Again, this is another Limited Edition piece in white gold case and a black dial.

Unlike the Quantieme Lunaire, where the time sub-dial is on the right the time subdial in this case is on the left at the 9 o'clock. The right sub-dial is the chronograph sub-dial with a digital reader to boot.

And unlike the Quantieme Lunaire, the Foudroyante function does not activate until the chronograph is activated. With the Quantieme Lunaire, the Foudroyante function is always constantly beating.

The movement also has 2 regulating organs - one for the chronograph and one for timekeeping. In this way, the accuracy of the timepiece improves as one barrel powers the chronograph and the other the time telling mechanism.

The chronograph is a column wheel (see below)...

As one would expect, the finishing on the Duometre is very well done.

Now back to the newly launched Chronograph Moon - this is a combination of the Quantieme Lunaire and the Chronograph...

Operating under the hood is the new Calibre 391 which I understand was modified from the 381. Whatever the case, it's no slouch and I suspect the movement under scrutiny will stand well on its own.

Between the platinum and the rose gold version, which one looks more appealing to you? For me, I still like the white metal but if only they could have done it in enamel, that would have been an outright winner for me.

Watches I Have Come Across - Lange Cabaret Moonphase

Throughout my watch collecting journey, I have been blessed to have come across many timepieces and I intend to document them in this photo essay. These are timepieces I don't own but have been fortunate to be able to see, feel, touch and photograph them. This time, I feature The Lange Cabaret Moonphase

The Cabaret range was not one of the 4 icons that was released back in 1994, but it is no less impressive.

First released as a time only piece, they later released it in several iterations - the moonphase and the Tourbillon.

The rectangular case with the big date at 12 o'clock is so Lange...

And the moonphase is located opposite at the 6 o'clock

What I like about the brand is that they do not take short cuts - what do I mean by that? Well, they developed a new movement to fit the form. A rectangular movement in a rectangular case.

And some Lange signature too... German silver and...

The hand engraved balance cock

And unlike the Lange 1, the adjustment for the date and moonphase is on the side of the case.

While not the most well known Lange, the Cabaret is still a lovely piece. And the Cabaret Tourbillon, when released, was the first Tourbillon that featured a stop function. Yes, when the crown is pulled the Tourbillon stopped and unlike all other timepieces when the Tourbillon continues to rotate while the wearer sets the time.