GTG With Special Guest - Romain Gauthier - Part 1 - Independents

It is not often you host your friends from Instagram when they are in town but this time around, we had three watch friends coming in to town and both Ben and Moe had contacted me about putting a group together. As it was, I was already planning another GTG so the timing was perfect.

So who are these special friends? Well, one of them goes by the handle @thewindingstem and another @1815chronofan and the "special" guest was Romain Gauthier himself. Coincidentally, they were visiting Singapore and had reached out to me. Of course we would be happy to have them. As with other events we have had in the past, we have a theme around our gatherings. This time around, the two themes were (1) Independent brands and (2) Dual time zone or Worldtimer. This blog post features all the independents.

Let's start with the most obvious choice - at the gathering were 4 Romain Gauthier timepieces... And the awesome one must be the Logical One.

What a timepiece! The oven-fired Grand Feu white enamel dial comes with a Fusée and Chain system providing constant-force to the movement.

And that movement is a sight to behold.

And then there is the Continuum, also known as C. Featured here is the ultra-light Titanium C with an integrated bracelet. Romain has explained how he was inspired by AP (having worked there) and the Royal Oak. He had wanted a timepiece that is fully integrated - that the watch includes the bracelet and the bracelet is the watch.

The entire case and dial is made from Grade 5 titanium and so is the movement. That makes the watch ultra light. Then there is the C Platinum (below) featuring a platinum case but the timepiece is on a strap.

You immediately feel the heft of the platinum piece especially when it comes with a 18k white gold movement too.

What's the difference between the titanium movement and the white gold movement? It's in the finishing. The titanium version has a more matte finishing (polished titanium is difficult) while the white gold is more polished.

Then there is also the Insight Micro-Rotor on the wrist of Moe...

Continuing with the Independent theme, there is the F.P. Journe LineSport Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante as well as the more dressy Chronometre Souverain.

Exquisite sample of the Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante belonging to one of our fellow collector... you know who you are.

And the Chronometre Souverain (below)...

This CS, at least for me, was the one that got away... should have pulled the trigger when it was introduced and available. But it is what it is. No point regretting what got away. I am definitely fortunate and grateful for what I already have.

And the brand that has been getting lots of attention is Gerald Genta and here is an example of the Retro Solo. Perhaps the rebirth of a brand?

And who can miss this very well made Lang & Heyne Georg Sincere Edition. Limited to 12 pieces when Sincere launched the Haute Horlogerie in MBS.

Gorgeous front and back. If only...

And the one belonging to me - the Vitreum Watch Honeycomb enamel dial.

I am so enamoured with this piece. The enamelling is very well done and fact is that no two pieces are alike makes this pretty unique.

And this is an earlier year H. Moser - when it was still called the Mayu.

Now called the Endeavour, this example features a removable escapement with 3 days power reserve and with a sub-dial for the second hands. I believe this is already discontinued.

And this is from one of our guest, Ben - a Gronefeld Principia.

And what about Alain Silberstein?

This chronograph is when Alain Silberstein was still Alain Silberstein. Iconic colours

And two Baltic MR01 at the same gtg?

The salmon (above) and the silver dial (below). Featuring a micro-rotor, this is one well made timepiece for the price point. Great quality-price-ratio.

Not to be outdone, we have two Habring chronographs.

One is the Chrono Sport Sincere Haute Horlogerie edition (above) and the other the Doppel 3 (below).

Fact is Habring makes one of the most affordable doppelchronograph stemming from his time at IWC where he also developed the Pilot Doppelchronograph.

What about the Black Sector by Furlan Marri. The first mechanical timepiece by the brand featuring a 37.5mm case. Nice size.

What's also interesting is the Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Vianney Halter, a collaboration between Louis Erard and Vianney Halter.

This is one of the first collaborations with many more to come for Louis Erard and their Regulateur series.

And another enamel beauty is none other than the Ulysse Nardin Marine Tourbillon.

The dial is a Guilloche Grand Feu enamel blue dial which is not common.

It is always fun to have friends and collectors meet and share the passion of collecting. It's not just the expensive timepieces that are on display but many varied styles for any budget. Watch collecting can be fun and it doesn't have to be expensive.

This was a special gtg with the presence of Mr. Romain Gauthier, Moe and Ben. We don't normally have guests from overseas but in this case, 3 came! We enjoyed ourselves with Romain's presentation of the brand, his philosophy, his work and how he sees his brand evolving. We learnt a lot about the brand and the timepieces he brought along.

Stay tuned for for Part 2 where we unveil the Dual Time and GMT timepieces at the event. Can you guess what those are?

IWC Flieger Doppelchronograph Ref 3713

IWC Pilot is as much an icon as the Portuguese for the brand but the Reference 3713 Doppelchronograph is a true winner. Of late, I have been revisiting older IWC creations - they speak to me. And like I have said many times before, they don't make it like they used to.

Made between 1996 through to 2005, the version I have here is probably an early year model with a Tritium dial and this comes with an original IWC bracelet too. A little more about Tritium dial later on.

Don't be confused with the "normal" Chronograph (see below). Missing the one pusher at the 10 o'clock but still a looker. This one below is called the Fliegerchronograph reference 3706.

The Dopplechronograph, otherwise known as the chronograph rattrapante is also known as the double chronograph. Not only does it measure an event, the Doppelchronograph measures two elapsed events. Accoridng to several sources, the base movement is the reliable ETA 7750 and the module that operates the rattrapante was designed by Richard Habring.

As you can see above, the chronograph hands are stacked one on top of the other - to measure the split seconds. What does rattrapante mean? Well, rattrapante roughly translates from French to mean “catch up”.

What does the Split Second (rattrapante) do? Well, when the user depresseses the chrono actuator at the 2 o'clock position, both hands moves in tandem. Depressing the pusher at 2 o'clock again stops the chronograph function and when we push the actuator at 4 o'clock, the hands reset to the original (60) position.

Where the magic happens is when we push the button at the 10 o'clock position while the chronograph is still operating. Let's assume there are two runners racing on a track, Runner A and Runner B. Going back to the start - we push the actuator at 2 o'clock to start the chronograph function when both runners start their run. Let's say that Runner A crosses the finish line first, we depress the button at 10 o'clock to stop the timing for the first runner. When we depress the actuator at the 10, one hand stops (timing the first person to cross the line) and another continues to operate thereby recording Runner B until Runner B completes his run. At that point, pushing the actuator again at 2 o'clock stops the second chronograph hand and there, you get to measure 2 events separately.

And you can imagine that any chronograph with such a complication does not come cheap. Not many manufacturers make the double split chronograph. Since leaving IWC, Richard Habring has started his own line of timepieces which includes the Felix Doppelchronograph that has the split second function.

The movement IWC reference for the 3713 is the 29 jewels, Caliber 79230 beating at 3 hertz (21,600 vph). This is the second version of the split second chronograph, the first being Reference 3711. Both uses the base ETA 7750 movement. Power reserve for this movement is about 44 hours. The display of the Doppelchronograph comes with Day and Date at the 3 o'clock position (see above).

Located at the 6 o'clock position are the words T SWISS MADE T - with the T denoting the dial was treated with Tritium (see above). Before Superluminova was used as an agent to provide luminosity, Radium and Tritium were used. Not only were they radioactive (although not harmful to users), their luminosity strength decreases with age, patina setting in eventually giving it a dark beige colour with little to no lume.

Not only are the hands treated with Tritium, the quarter markers are also treated with Tritium. As you can see from the watch dial, the markers have already started to patina - all turning beige. While I am not that worried about the luminosity of the hands and markers, I do kind of like the vintage look and feel of the patina.

In the world of Double Splits, a few brands are normally associated with that - A. Lange & Sohn, Patek Philippe, Habring just to name a few. The good folks at Lange has gone one further creating the first Triple Split. Talk about over engineering! What a feat though.

One parting question I have for all of you - how often do you use your chronograph function? Really...

Honeycomb, Honeygold! Vitreum Champlevé Enamel Dial

When they first launched, most of us have not heard of Vitreum Watches. But what intrigued me was their limited production of an enamel dial with Honeycomb motif.

Based in Randers, Denmark and founded by Kasper Reisner the folks at Vitreum launched in limited quantities two versions of the Champlevé enamelled dial - the Starry Night and Honeycomb. Was it Starry Night or Honeycomb? Tough choices but I settled for the Honeycomb.

The hand wound FH01 launched the brand. The enamel dials are made in Wales but the timepiece assembly is done in Denmark.

These mechanical timepieces come with a Grand Feu Enamel dial and for the Honeycomb, uses the Champlevé technique. What that means is that the cells in the Champlevé dial are first shaped in a solid piece of silver, after which each cell is engraved by hand creating the miniature sunbust pattern. Then honey-coloured vitreous enamel (raw enamel) is carefully filled into the recess (in this case the honeycomb) and then fired at 850°C to achieve the grand feu enamel dial.

As with any hand crafted products, no two are alike. Similar but never the same. With hand crafted enamel work each layering, firing, polishing will bring different results. Even between cells of the honeycomb, you can see differences guaranteeing that its hand crafted and not commercially done - not sure if you can actually do commercial enamel dials like these.

And with hand made enamel dials, there are bound to be imperfections. Because they are hand made, no two dials are alike as each dial will have a different colour configuration. When one buys the Vitreum Honeycomb, they will get a unique piece.

The FH01 is released in a a limited quantity of 5 per variant. As I understand it, this might not be the only Honeycomb Vitreum might do. Seems like there will be future releases too. In what form and shape, I don't know.

The overall package is a compelling one. Even the hands are pretty well made too...

My only gripe is the case back... closed case back. I wish they had an exhibition case back also showing off the movement. Beating inside is a hand wound Sellita SW210 movement.

And a nifty detail... there is a recess in the case. Pulling out the crown is that much easier.

The timepiece also comes with a signed buckle...

The watch also comes with a strap with quick change mechanism. For a strap change clutz like me, this is a nice detail.

The 39.5mm steel case comes with a combination of satin and polished finishing. The size is perfect for someone like me with a smallish wrist size.

Many challenges along the way, but the folks at Vitreum have come through with a very unique product. Congratulations to Kasper and the Vitreum team. Can't wait to see what's next in the line up.