Inside the Heart of Time: My Chopard Watchmaking Masterclass Experience

There’s something magical about a luxury timepiece — the way it sits across the wrist, the quiet sweep of the seconds hand, the assured confidence it exudes. Having started my watch collecting journey more than 20 years ago, it is in sessions like these that truly makes you understand the art, precision and human touch behind every timepiece.

Over the course of two hours, under the steady guidance of a two seasoned Chopard watchmaker, Yves-Marie Kerebel and Owyang Kaiming, we were given a rare opportunity — to take apart and reassemble the Calibre 63.03-C movement. This wasn’t just a look under the hood; it was a deep dive into the mechanical soul of a fine mechanical watch.

The Chopard studio is an elegant, intimate space designed for hands-on horology experiences. Natural light pours in from large floor-to-ceiling windows on the left, offering a view of the Ngee Ann City building and greenery outside. Each of the 6 participant’s station is neatly arranged with a raised white work station accompanied by a comfortable tan leather chair.

On the right side of each table, a dark wooden presentation box — containing the watch tools and the training Calibre — sits ready for use. Bottled water and glasses are set out for each guest, adding a touch of the famed Chopard hospitality. If you know the brand long enough, you will know that they are about discreet luxury and attention to the little details.

We began with a pristine, fully assembled movement (above) laid out before us.

A guide book was also provided showing the step by step disassembly and assembly of the movement. Piece by piece, we disassembled it — bridges, screws, gears, — each removed in an exact sequence.

The watchmaker explained every component’s role: how the gear train transfers energy, how the escapement regulates time, how each jewel minimises friction. Even the tiniest part, barely visible to the naked eye, plays a critical role in the watch’s heartbeat.

We started by releasing the power reserve from the main barrel and then removing the balance cock and the balance wheel. Step by step, we were coached to carefully remove each component, learning along the way the names of the components and how they interact with each other to keep the watch ticking.

A fully disassembled movement with the winding crown intact.

The last piece to disassemble is the winding crown...

The reassembly was where the true challenge began. Taking out is easy... putting it back and ensuring it works is something else altogether! It demanded steady hands, keen eyes, and patience — qualities that professional watchmakers hone over decades. Aligning gears perfectly, setting pivots into their jeweled holes, ensuring the balance wheel came to life again — it was a moment of pure satisfaction when the movement finally ticked back to life under my own hands. Thanks in most part to the watchmakers at hand to assist...

And in true Chopard hospitality, we were hosted to lunch. More time to chat and learn from Yve-Marie and Kaiming. And unlike many other brands, the watchmakers in Chopard Singapore are trained to handle complications including servicing the Perpetual Calendars - no need to be sending them back to Switzerland. Impressive I must say.

Walking away from the session, I can again confirm that a luxury timepiece isn’t just an object of beauty; it’s a masterpiece of engineering and craftsmanship. Every second it keeps is the result of countless hours of design, assembly, and finishing by skilled artisans. The L.U.C range as impressive as it is, houses all in-house movement and whenever I see an L.U.C, I don’t just see a watch — I see the heartbeat of time itself.

Some of the L.U.C timepieces belonging to the attendees.

Thanks Chopard, Garina, Jing Ting and Celeste for hosting a wonderfully organised Watchmaking Masterclass. Looking forward to the next event!

A Dream in Indigo: Unveiling the Habring² Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase Shellman Edition

As a watch collector, I believe that everyone should have a functional Habring² in their collection and I was always wanting one myself. The perfect time came in September 2024, when Shellman launched their 12th edition of the Watch Collector's Week.

Habring², the independent Austrian watchmaker, has carved a niche for itself with its commitment to minimalist aesthetics, and an unwavering focus on functional elegance.

The Oskar, a relatively new addition to their lineup, already impressed with its classical charm and the delightful combination of a pointer date and moon phase complication, powered by their robust A11Ups movement. But the Shellman Edition in Indigo takes this foundation and imbues it with a unique character that is both subtle and striking.

At first glance, the most immediate and profound difference lies in the dial color. While the standard Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase is available in a classic glossy white or a more contemporary blue galvanized dial, the Shellman Edition introduces a mesmerizing indigo hue. This isn't just any blue; it's a deep, rich indigo that shifts with the light, revealing subtle nuances that evoke the twilight sky. It's a color that speaks of sophistication and understated luxury, setting it apart from its siblings and giving it an almost poetic quality.

The choice of indigo is particularly poignant given Shellman's Japanese heritage. Indigo dyeing, or Aizome (藍染), boasts a rich and ancient history in Japan, dating back centuries.

From humble peasant clothing to the intricate textiles of the samurai, indigo was ubiquitous, prized not only for its striking beauty but also for its natural antibacterial and insect-repelling properties. The deep, varied shades of blue created through repeated dipping and oxidation became so iconic that, during the Meiji Restoration, Western visitors marvelling at the prevalence of blue across the nation coined the term "Japan Blue." This deep connection to a cultural cornerstone imbues the Shellman Edition's dial with a layer of meaning that transcends mere aesthetics, linking it directly to the heart of Japanese artistry and tradition.

Beyond the captivating color, the Shellman Edition often features specific details that further distinguish it.

Dial Finishing (above): Unlike the regular version, the dial in this Shellman edition is slightly different. The two step dial if finished differently with the periphery being finished with a circular sunburst pattern while the centre is matte finished. Due to the difference in finishing, this indigo dial has a depth of colour that gives it a different hue when you view from different angles.

Numeral and Hand Treatment: The application or finish of the Breguet numerals and leaf-shaped hands might be subtly altered to complement the indigo dial. This could involve different plating, a unique polishing, or even a specific lume application that harmonizes with the overall aesthetic.

Moon Phase Disc: While the Oskar's moon phase display is already a highlight, a limited edition might feature a slightly different depiction of the moon or stars on the disc, adding an exclusive touch for collectors.

These subtle yet impactful changes transform the watch from a general release into a more exclusive and collectible piece. The indigo dial, in particular, offers a sense of individuality that the more widely available white and blue versions, while beautiful in their own right, cannot quite match.

Regardless of the edition, the Habring² Oskar Pointer Date Moon Phase remains a horological triumph. Its 38.5mm stainless steel case is perfectly proportioned for my smaller wrist, sitting elegantly on the wrist without being overly assertive. The 9mm height (or around 10.3mm with the domed sapphire crystal) is remarkably thin for a watch housing a moon phase and pointer date complication, a testament to Habring²'s masterful movement architecture.

To adjust the date or moon-phase, the pusher at the 4 o'clock position on the case allows one to adjust from there (see profile above picture). The first push advances the date while a deeper push advances both date and moon-phase simultaneously.

The A11Ups manual-winding movement is as one would expect of a Habring² - simple finishing on a funcational movement. Habring²'s commitment to in-house production and finishing is evident in the polished edges, decorative engravings, and perlage visible on the movement through the open caseback. With a 48-hour power reserve and beating at 28,800 vph (4Hz), it's a reliable and accurate workhorse.

The dial layout, with the moon phase and small seconds sub-dial at 6 o'clock and the pointer date encircling the periphery, is remarkably balanced and legible. The vintage-inspired Breguet numerals lend a timeless appeal, while the highly polished leaf-shaped hands provide clear time indication against an indigo dial.

This particular Shellman Edition holds special significance as it marks the 12th anniversary of Shellman's Watch Collector Week. Shellman, the esteemed Tokyo-based independent watch retailer, has long been a pivotal force in the Japanese and global watch collecting scene.

Shellman's annual Watch Collector Week, often held at prestigious venues like Isetan Shinjuku, is a testament to their dedication to showcasing the finest in watchmaking. These events are not just sales opportunities but educational experiences, bringing together watchmakers, enthusiasts, and industry experts to share knowledge and foster a vibrant community.

This Habring² Indigo edition (alongside other releases), presented during the 12th year of Shellman's celebrated Watch Collector Week, not only highlights the enduring appeal of the Oskar but also solidifies the fruitful partnership between these two influential entities in the world of fine watches. For those seeking a watch that is both technically superb and visually captivating, this celestial dream in indigo, imbued with the spirit of a decade-long collaborative legacy and the rich heritage of "Japan Blue," is undoubtedly a piece to cherish.

Are You Ready For The One Point Five?

Having released the Series 1 which was sold out in no time, ZLTD Watches started out to develop Series 2. Series 2 will be more technical in nature so in the meantime, they decided to release the Series 1.5, a slightly different take on the popular Series 1.

What are the differences between Series 1 and Series 1.5? Well, below is the Series 1 and just focusing on the dial, the difference is stark.

Series 1.5 comes with an anodized titanium dial in two colours - Aubergine and Bronze. The dial comes with brushed finishing and that gives the dial a different hue under different lighting conditions.

What is not apparent on photo is the new feature of an hour hand adjustment found on the Series 1.5. If one pulls out the crown to the first position, the owner can change the hour hand (just like a GMT) without having to reset the minutes and seconds hand.

Another difference between these two Series is the movement...

One Point Five comes with an automatic movement... I wish they had kept it as a manual winding.

As with the Series 1, the finishing on the indices are very good. (The photos are those of the prototype and not the finished product... there are some smudges on the ring which I am sure will not be there for production pieces).

The launch of Series 1.5 is slated for Saturday, 12th July 2025 with 2 slots - 1000hrs (Singapore Time) and 2200hrs (Singapore time).

The 38.5mm case is perfect for my small wrist.

If you had missed out on Series 1, do take note of the launch of the 1.5. I think there are some upgrades in 1.5 worth considering over the Series 1. Between Aubergine and Bronze, what's your choice? Drop a comment below.