In a world where independent watchmaking is synonymous with high end watchmaking and astronomical pricing, it’s a breadth of fresh air that Kenny is taking with Z.L. Toh Watches - soon to be renamed ZLTD Watches.
Founded in Singapore by a dedicated enthusiast, Kenny, Z.L.Toh Watches set out with a clear mission: to bring handcrafted watchmaking to a wider audience, and most importantly make it affordable. His inaugural collection, Series 1, was a testament to this vision, quickly selling out and allowing Kenny to personally immerse himself in the craft, deepening his respect for independent watchmakers.
There’s something deeply rewarding about a watch that is customisable because it feels as if it were made for you. Not just a beautiful object, but a timepiece where every design element whispers of tradition, craftsmanship, and quiet, considered choices. That’s exactly what drew me to the Series 1.
I had met with Kenny over lunch some time back in December 2024 and we discussed about the Series 1 project and what the design DNA are. Kenny is clear about what he wanted and how each owner (15 of us) can select their own customisation. While the case and the movement have been set, the dial, hands and strap are all customisable. These are some of the early images of Series 1 prior to the release... The hands on the prototype were deemd below standard by Kenny and hence he went on to improve on those hands before the first piece went to the final customer.
First the black rhodium dial (below)...
Then the silver rhodium dial (below)...
If you compare the pre-release prototype to the one I received, you will notice the difference is in the hands.
Now to my impression of the timepiece. Let’s start with the case design. For a dress watch, the case is paramount, and Series 1 nails it with a focus on both form and function. The polished case exudes ergonomic refinement and some interesting details.
For a dress watch, its the dimensions that matter - A 38.5mm case diameter strikes that perfect balance for a refined presence on the wrist, neither too large nor too small. Paired with a compact lug-to-lug of under 45mm, it ensures an elegant fit for most wrists. And at less than 8mm in thickness, it slips effortlessly under any cuff, maintaining that sleek, understated profile essential for a true dress piece.
The inclusion of dual lug holes is a thoughtful touch, offering seamless compatibility with both curved and straight straps – a collector's dream for strap versatility. Versatility in Design!
The lug design itself is a masterclass, merging the classic "cow horn" and "teardrop" forms into something uniquely elegant. These downward-sloping lugs aren't just for aesthetics; they're engineered for ergonomic wear, ensuring the watch naturally conforms to your wrist for unparalleled comfort. The fully polished case further enhances its dress watch elegance, catching the light beautifully. So, its not just a nod to heritage, but also true to form.
The dial is available in two monochrome variants – "Silver" and "Black Rhodium" – this deliberate choice serves two key purposes. First, it provides a striking contrast that makes the mirror-polished indices truly pop. Second, it beautifully showcases the intricate craft of heat-treating the watch hands to a specific, vibrant color. Notice the brand name nicely edged onto the outer ring keeping the dial uncluttered. Nice touch!
A simple yet elegant guilloché floral pattern adorns the dial, a subtle dance of light and shadow that truly comes alive, shifting dynamically under different angles and lighting conditions. It's a captivating detail that rewards close inspection. While it is machine crafted and not hand turned, the dial is still a sight to behold.
The proud achievement comes from the finishing on the hour indices showcasing the art of mirror polishing. Here's where the dedication to demanding craft truly shines. For Series 1, a key objective was to highlight the painstaking art of mirror/black polishing.
Meticulous Craftsmanship: Every single hour index on the dial undergoes a laborious, multi-stage process. Each index is polished with various grits of sandpaper, then refined to perfection with pegwood and successive grades of diamond paste. Once polished to a flawless sheen, each index is then carefully installed onto the dial, piece by piece. This commitment to detail by Kenny is a testament to true horological artistry.
One detail not mentioned are the minute indices on the outer ring - the holes are painstakingly hand filled with black lacquer.
The other customisable element are the hands. Complementing the dial are the elegant Breguet-style hands, chosen for their timeless appeal.
This is where I learnt something new - the unique hues of the steel heated hands is an art in itself. While the alchemy of heat treatment is a science, getting it right is an art. I selected the silver rhodium dial and to complement the look, mine is the purple hands to provide contrast too.
Each hand is first meticulously high-polished before being heat-treated to a vibrant color – straw, purple, or blue – to perfectly complement your chosen dial variant. This heat treatment process demands immense patience and skill to achieve a precise hue. Purple, in particular, is the most challenging, requiring swift precision as it transitions to blue in a very narrow window.
Because of this handmade, manual process, each watch hand in Series 1 will possess its own truly unique, heat-tempered hue, making your timepiece even more special and distinct.
Nice but not perfect yet... Herein lies the beauty of handcraft. That fraction of a second too slow or too fast makes a world of difference. Experience, they say, comes with dedication and obsession to achieve perfection. And I am sure Kenny will get there with his dedication and attention to detail.
Flip over a Series 1 timepiece, and you're greeted by a captivating open case-back, offering a window into its mechanical heart. Kenny chose the Sellita SW210 manual winding movement which was meticulously finished to an Élaboré grade.
You'll notice the elegant Geneva stripes, delicate circular graining on the main plate, striking blued screws, radiant sunburst ratchet wheels, and Rhodium plating. To keep the cost down and speed up the delivery, the movement is finished by the manufacture, not hand finished. But like I said, in order to keep the cost down, this was inevitably the sacrifice.
The choice of the Sellita SW210 was deliberate. It is small enough and it's renowned for its exceptional robustness and superb timekeeping accuracy, all while allowing the brand to achieve the slim profile essential for an ideal dress watch.
A fully polished case enhances the Series 1’s dressy credentials, while those sloping lugs and dual holes ensure a comfortable fit on a wide range of wrists. What’s the perfect compliment? The icing on the cake? Handcrafted strap and Kenny chose Atelier Kai for his exceptional straps - a partnership in perfection.
Every strap is meticulously hand-stitched and tailored to each customer's specific wrist size. Atelier Kai's unwavering dedication to handmade artistry and exceptional quality makes them the perfect partner, ensuring a comfortable fit for the wrist of discerning collectors. For me, I chose the Glazed Purple Ostrich Leg Strap no prize why I chose purple.
What's my final impression? In a world dominated by high priced independent watchmakers, I value what ZL Toh Watches bring to the table. Affordable customised timepieces. Is it perfectly executed? No, but an extremely good first release one that provides great value for the buck. For what I paid, it's worth every cent and more. Proudly Made in Singapore, I can safely say nothing comes remotely close in the Swiss Made camp. As the brand evolves into ZLTD Watches, one thing remains certain — these are watches made by enthusiasts, for enthusiasts. Series 1.5 is on the way and for those who missed out on Series 1, be quick! Stay tuned!
