Throughout my watch collecting journey, I have come across some very interesting brands and timepieces and this time, I have had the pleasure of seeing in metal the Edouard Koehn World Heritage II and the Tempus II Chronograph.
Called the World Heritage II Universal Time & Alarm, this titanium case timepiece is for the avid traveller.
One glance and you can see the resemblence to the Vulcain Cricket worldtimer and this is no coincidence. The owner of the brand happens to be Mr. Bernard Fleury, former CEO of Vulcain. Having completed his education in a school of horology in Geneva, Edouard Koehn went on to join Patek Philippe. While at Patek Philippe, Koehn's expertise was in complications and his talent did not go unnoticed. So good he was that he quickly became not only an employee but was also made a shareholder in Patek. The Edouard Koehn brand was started in 1891 after Mr. Koehn left Patek Philippe to start his own brand.
Upon his death in 1908, Mr. Koehn's son took over until the 1930s but it wasn't until 2015 when Mr. Fleury acquired the brand and relaunched in 2020. Originally established in Geneva, the new Edouard Koehn headquarters is now in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.
The chronograph was the first to be launched - the Tempus I. The tricompax chronograph comes in two versions - the no-date and the skeletonised date version. The bicompax Tempuss II comes without the date - have a look at their collection here.
Between the Tempus and World Heritage, I am more of a classical watch person, hence the preference for the World Heritage II. This limited edition timepiece features the ice-blue dial and every dial combination is limited to 88 pieces.
The timepiece offers a 24 time zones view (see below), day/night indicator ring plus the alarm feature.
What is nice is the clear layout - very legible and visible.
While there are similarities with the Cricket, a Vulcain it is not...
Firstly, the movement is a self-winding Calibre EK-MVTWTA01 unlike the manual winding calibre in the Cricket. Secondly, the older versions of the Cricket comes with a closed case back while the World Heritage II has an open caseback clearly showing off the mechanical prowess. The integrated alarm system was specially built for Edouard Koehn with the stiker hitting the case.
The automatic movement has a double barrel that provides 48 hours of power reserve and is entirely manufactured in La Chaux-de-Fonds.
The titanium case is 42mm in diameter and rated to 50 metres of water resistance. At SGD14,090 retail, this is a very tempting proposition for such a complication.
Next up is the Tempus II chronograph, a very masculine timepiece.
What's special about this chronograph? For one, the balance wheel escapement is exposed on the dial side between the 10 and 12 o'clock position - Open Heart style.
And the kicker for me is the fact that the minute hand for the chronograph counter at 3 o'clock features a jumping hand. Not many brands has such a feature.
What's more? This is also a monopusher chronograph to boot!
Rated to 100 metres water resistance, the 43mm diameter steel case comes with an integrated rubber strap.
The Open Heart monopusher chronpgraph encases the 245 components movement and has 48 hours of power reserve.
Edouard Koehn prides themselves as a brand with innovation - turning the escapement upside down to reveal it on the dial side. Gives the chronograph a different look.
Between the two, I'm all for the World Heritage II as my small wrist can take it better. But fret not, I understand Edouard Koehn is coming up with a more classical chronograph - a rattrapante with an enamel dial at that! Stay tuned for more interesting things to come from the brand. Thanks to Timmy for showing me these two pieces. To view the timepieces head down to Sincere Fine Watches - they are the authorised dealers for Edouard Koehn in Singapore and the region.
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